CascadeClimbers.com Annual Picnic this Thursday

The CascadeClimbers.com annual picnic is this Thursday, April 30th at 6pm, at Seattle’s Woodland Park Zoo, Picnic Shelter #6. The plan is food (potluck items welcome), friends, and slideshows from some noteworthy climbers including Steph Abegg and Wayne Wallace, and some not as noteworthy climbers (but really nice people!) like little ‘ol me. They’re planning a gear swap, too, so it should be a fun shindig.

If you want a little taste of the mayhem that may ensue, just visit the CascadeClimbers.com forum post to get an idea of what we’re all in for.

Oh my word, what have I gotten myself into… I’ll turn my photo show into a little iMovie afterward and will post it for your viewing pleasure!

PS: For those of you who don’t live in slug areas, that isn’t a picture of human waste, it’s a slug, the state bird of Washington.

PPS: no slugs were harmed in the making of this blog post. That pic is linked to from the Cascadeclimbers.com forum post…

Filed under: Events, The climbing life

The RockClimberGirl guide to moderate bouldering in Leavenworth.

No, seriously. There is. I’m not pulling your leg.

I’d been told that bouldering in Leavenworth, WA is no fun until you’re at about V4. I’ve heard it’s punishing, hard, and was looked on with skepticism from my bouldering friends when I announced that I was going to start bouldering up there a few weeks ago. Alas — finding regular climbing partners has been a bit less predictable lately, so I’ve wanted to get used to the idea of climbing activities I can do solo with relative safety, and bouldering is my pick. Lizzy from Dream in Vertical said at one point that bouldering has been great for her lead head, which I definitely still need to work on. And, I’ve been climbing routes almost exclusively for the last few months, so my endurance is up, but my power is lacking. For all those reasons, I decided it’s time to expand my climbing to include bouldering outside. In four plus years of climbing, I’ve done precious little outside bouldering; it’s time to change that.

The short version, for those of you who just want the ticklist. Here are the problems, and their locations, that I’ve found fun so far and worthwhile to play on, whether I finished them or not:

The Fridge Boulder: Cool Down (V0-), Cellar Door (V3), Fridge Center (V4)
Barney’s Rubble: The Rail (V0), Tree Crack (V1), Fun House Stairway (V1+)
Mad Meadows: The Scoop (V2)
Lower Forestland: Breadline (V0+)
Upper Forestland: Sunny and Steep (V2)

And, now the long version.

Cool thing about bouldering #1: No alpine start necessary.
Last weekend, I kidnapped my buddy Peter for my first Leavenworth bouldering trip.
We headed out from Kitsap about 7 am; not the 5 am or so I’m used to for climbing trips. We took our time getting out to Leavenworth, stopping for groceries and stove fuel, and to stop in to Der Mountainhausen, otherwise known as Leavenworth Mountain Sports, just for fun. We arrived at our first destination, the Fridge Boulder, at about noon.

We left the Fridge Boulder at about 4 pm.

In the intervening four hours, Peter and I, repeatedly, threw ourselves at the Fridge Boulder, in an exercise some might call “insanity.” We tried, and tried, and tried problems; trying the same thing, over and over, and hoping for a different outcome. Peter was working “Fridge Center,” a classic Leavenworth V4. I was working Cellar Door, a three move V3 that most folks passing through cruised on their first or second go. I have no idea how many times I tried it. The beta: grab starting sidepull / slot (depending on how you want to go), with your feet low on good holds. Move right hand out to a painful crimpy rail, then work your feet way high on a good left, and crappy right foot. Spring up to a sloping ledge then top out. That whole springing up to the sloping ledge is my downfall. That brings me to:

Cool thing about bouldering #2: Some landings, and falls, can be safe.
I tried to spring for that sloping ledge I have no idea how many times. Every time, I came up somewhere between one and six inches short. Over the course of the day, I actually touched the ledge maybe twice, but couldn’t hang on. Every time, I’d either fall away from the boulder and land safely on a single bouldering pad (whether or not I was being spotted), or, I’d slide down the boulder a bit, but even that didn’t cause any damage. I actually had fun flinging myself at the slopey ledge all day, and it was hard to give up on the problem even though I wasn’t making progress. I’ve got to get a little more confident on my feet to be able to push up to the hold instead of unsuccessfully flailing toward it each time, so this is a project I’ll come back to for sure. I didn’t finish the crux of Fridge Center, but the starting moves are delicate and fun and fantastic. I look forward to working that one too, once I’m a bit stronger.

After that we moved on to Mad Meadows where Peter worked a host of harder problems including the unlikely-for-me sit start to Drugstore Cowboy (V3) which looks fun after the start, and we spotted but didn’t get on the Hueco Route (V1) which looked like fun. I became obsessed with The Scoop, a V2 on The Rail boulder. The problem works up a slopey/pinchy sidepull on the left side of a scoop feature on the rock, to a full extension envelope slot on the right side, with (for me, at least) delicate footwork required to make the reach. From there, it’s good holds up to the topout. I tried and tried the start and couldn’t reach the good envelope slot. Finally, on one attempt that didn’t begin on the start holds, I reached the envelope slot, so then I knew I had no excuse. After a few more tries, I gained the envelope slot after starting on the ground, and then really had no excuse. I had to top out. Oh crap.

Cool thing about bouldering #3: Topping out can be fun.
Without hesitation, I carefully, slowly and deliberately worked my hands and feet up toward the topout, and next I knew I was standing on top of the boulder. I was kind of surprised — it happened really fast, and I didn’t get nervous about the top out, even though I assumed I would. Instead, I just thought, “Well, now I just have to get up there,” and I did. It was super fun. If I’d never topped out on anything that day, it would have been a day well spent — I decided early in the day that I’d rather work V3s (which, really, is very ambitious for me) and not finish a single one, than climb V0s in a try or two all day since I’d learn more. It turns out, V2 is a good sweet spot for me at this point. They’re not gimmes, I learn something from them, but some V2s I can finish, so if I get frustrated with a given V3 or V4 I know to try to find a V2 to work for a possible success.

The next day, we were both pretty worked, so the day started out with a roadside pancake making sesh (turns out if you deep fry Krusteaz whole wheat and honey pancakes in canola oil, they taste better than donuts) and then a leisurely migration to the Barney’s Rubble area. This brings us to…

Cool thing about bouldering #4: The vibe.
Climbing is fun, but climbing is also stressful. There’s lining up enough partners that hopefully, by the time you actually leave, at least one won’t have bailed. There’s all the gear, all the sorting, the racking, the preparation, the packing. There’s the seriousness… the first aid kits, the water-enough-for-the-objective, the food, the planning, the routefinding, the approach, and the who’s taking first lead. I love it, and I tie in every chance I get, but I gotta say… boulderers are on to something.

Bouldering is pretty freaking chill compared to all that roped-up drama. Peter wasn’t really feeling it on Sunday, but heck, we’re just bouldering, so we loaded up coffee, shoes, chalk bags and the bouldering pads and headed for the Barney’s Rubble area. Peter also brought along a little magic elixir, which he claimed helped him feel better after yesterday’s self-abuse… a part-full bottle of red wine. I climbed The Rail (V0) which was fun, including a nice slabby downclimb, and Tree Crack (V1) which was confidence inspiring and great fun. Tree Crack is a nice thin crack for hands to start, up to sections with good holds for hands and some with thinner hands, requiring a bit of foot-trusting. I can’t vouch for the landing, since it is a bit slabby, since I didn’t come off; I just worked up it and really enjoyed it. It has an easy walkoff, which is also a bonus.

I worked Fun House Stairway (V1+) a bit, but it felt unbelievably hard — I could hardly get into a proper sit start on the start hold.

Really, though, that first weekend we were just pretty hosed. We visited with a few nice passer-by boulderers, and ran into a buddy from our gym who’d relocated, so Peter had some magic elixir, I climbed a few easy / fun boulder problems and snacked on oranges, and we had a nice, chill time. Overall, the other boulderers we met were friendly, warm and relaxed. Every once in awhile you see whatever-the-bouldering-equivalent-of-tossing-a-wobbler is, but mostly, the vibe is relaxed and fun, and I think everybody’s just a little bit happier for not having to hike two hours with 30 pounds of gear.

This last weekend, I went back to Leavenworth, and met new friends Fitz and Becca who shared their campfire with me Saturday night, then the guys rolled in late. Colin lead and I cleaned Classic Crack (5.8) as a warm up on Sunday (fun, hard for the grade, I look forward to leading it someday), then we headed for Barney’s Rubble to start the day. The guys worked Alcove Center (V4, with a V5 dyno variation) and I tried it a handful of times, but after missing the first move enough times to bruise my butt to sore, I decided to back off a bit.

I started VERY slow. I was feeling my Classic Crack warm up, and wasn’t sure I was fully recovered from bouldering the prior weekend, so was pretty nervous to pull too hard too fast. I worked Fun House Stairway a bit, and felt progress, but have yet to finish it. The problem is hard. When I abandoned the far left side of the sloping start hold which everybody else uses, and just crimped on the edge of the hold that made all the difference in the world. I can now make the first few moves (footwork, including using heel hooks, is key for keeping your weight in) so I look forward to getting back to it again.

Cool thing about bouldering #5: It’s fun, even if you don’t finish anything.
I really felt a sense of accomplishment just making improvement on problems, even if I didn’t finish them. On the other hand,

Cool thing about bouldering #6: It’s really fun to actually finish problems.
After everybody had thrashed themselves a bit at Barney’s Rubble, we headed for the Forestland area. The approach is lovely this time of year … bright green leaves, and lots of wildflowers, lining a beautiful trail. I still wasn’t super inspired, while the guys worked some fun hard-looking problems, but didn’t want to miss an opportunity to do a more achievable problem and fired up Breadline (V0+) which was excellent with a good topout. Again, I didn’t even hesitate when I got up high… I just knew I had to finish the problem, and finished it. We moved up to the Upper Forestland area, and while the guys worked some harder stuff, I went a wandering. I fell in love at first sight with Sunny and Steep (V2). Not just because it reminds me of Red Rock, NV… it looked FUN. The start was working up rounded sidepull juggy holds (for my hand size), to get your hands up high on two pretty good sloping ledges, then feet high to push up and left to get a decent sloper; another foot adjustment, then a kind of delicate top out on slopers (it’s not identified as a highball in the guidebook, but I definitely didn’t want to come off it from up high). Colin sailed up it but found the top out a bit slopey and insecure; I watched other climbers do different top outs that looked more secure. I pondered the problem for a long time which the guys worked Funny and Cheap (V4), occasionally trying, getting to the pretty good sloping ledges (the high point where I felt safe dropping from), but then didn’t have the courage to push higher.

I finally started to get cold, and packed up, telling the guys I thought I was done for the day, and was going to head out. I slowly packed up, muttering about “coming back to it,” and “too tired,” and “don’t want to hurt myself,” then decided, screw it, I can do it, and now’s the time.

With a fantastic herd of spotters and four pads, I started up the problem which by now was preprogrammed to my high point. When I got my hands on my high point holds, I don’t remember hesitating, I just remember slapping up and left for the next (not great, kinda more slopey than I was hoping for) hold, and at some point Colin called out just the right beta (“Get your right foot high,” which I did) to basically match hands on the more-slopey-than-I-would-have-liked hold, to get my feet up and reach up for the pretty good first hold of the top out. I was a bit intimidated by the top out before I started climbing, but once I was up there I just dialed myself in, moved very slowly and deliberately, making sure to keep my weight forward so I wouldn’t pull away from the rock if a particular hold wasn’t as good as I expected, and I topped out happily and with a great feeling of accomplishment. I also had a sincere appreciation for my herd of spotters… Once I was up there, I didn’t doubt my ability to top out, but when I threw for that not-so-great sloper, I was thankful to have six hands all there to try to keep my head off the ground if I came off.

Then, I was thankful for yet another roadside cook-out, this time in the parking lot of Der Safewayhausen. Don and Peter went razor clam digging on Saturday, so Don fried and we ate more diggers than I could count, sitting on our bouldering pads in the parking lot, to mostly disapproving or unamused looks and only a few smiles and thumbs up.

I’ve got to take a bit of a break… my fingers and shoulders are pretty worked from all of it… but I’m super excited about incorporating more bouldering into my routine. I know that sometimes I will get scared when topping out, I think I’ve just been lucky to find problems that I could work through the top outs on, but I LOVE the feeling of confidence I have when I’m working through those top outs… when I know that I just can’t fall, so I have to just do it and succeed. It’s not like me to think that confidently, but at least so far, it hasn’t been forced positive self-talk… it’s just been natural confidence, which feels really unusual and great. Lizzie’s right — I do think that bouldering just might be the best training I could do for lead climbing, since if I can muster that kind of confidence and keep calm on boulders, hopefully I can do the same thing on gear and bolts.

I look forward to tasting more of Washington’s boulders this year, now that I’m excited to get out and boulder. I’m also happy to know that now I have a good eye for problems that might be fun and safe for me to work on my own, with just my bouldering pad, for solo trips or days out when my partners have their own projects.

Most of all, I’m excited to know that I can find good, challenging projects in the V1 through V3 range. You might have to hunt around a bit if you’re a sub-V3 boulderer (like me) but they’re there, and they’re fun!

Filed under: Bouldering, Leavenworth, Trip Reports

Where were you, before climbing?

Yesterday evening, I had a decision to make. Do my dishes, or go play frisbee with some friends on a beautiful, warm, sunny spring evening. I think you can probably guess what I chose.

I’d never played Ultimate before, but I’m surrounded by Ultimate-ies, so really, it was only a matter of time. When I got to the field (late), a handful of folks were throwing a frisbee around. It didn’t look too bad, despite the unpleasant memories that seeing a junior high athletic field brought back. Throwing a frisbee turned into a fun game of Ultimate, and I learned fast and had great fun. When the game was over, and I headed for home, I started to think about how far I’ve come over the years, and about a conversation I had with my friend John awhile back about how I didn’t start out “TheClimberGirl.”

Let’s just say, I haven’t always been athletic.

And really, that may be the understatement of the year.

When I was a kid, I got sick a lot. I rode horses, but other than that, was pretty sedentary. In junior high, I tried track (and liked it, despite not being terribly good) and basketball (and hated it, because I was not terribly good). I played a little volleyball (liked it, despite not being terribly good). I cheered for a year. Like yes, cheerleading. It didn’t stick.

I experienced a lot of chronic pain during my pre-teen and teen years. My family has a history of Rheumatoid Arthritis, so that was a worry for me. After many, many doctor visits, I was diagnosed with Fibromyalgia and was treated with pharmaceuticals for years.

Somewhere along the lines, I realized that I had more fun with the Knowledge Bowl and Theater crowds than sitting on a bench during basketball practice, and my short-lived youth athletics career was over. During high school I went from small for my age and pretty scrawny to… somewhere on the heavy side of average.

In college I took some ballet classes, but otherwise was still pretty sedentary. I got sick of the side effects of the traditional Fibromyalgia treatments, and decided that I would just mind over matter the thing. I figured, if I lived a happy life, ate well, slept well, took care of myself the best I could, and lived within the limits my body set for me, that gave me the best shot at living a happy and healthy life.

In my early 20s I took up road cycling with a group of friends, but my knees gave out after a long summer of long training rides and an attempt at the Trek Tri Island. During that training, I was diagnosed with exercise induced asthma, which I had to treat with three different types of medications in order for me to bicycle. After that, I took another hiatus from exercise.

That hiatus ended when I took up climbing, during my late 20s. When I first touched the wall at the local climbing gym, I knew I’d be hooked despite the many fears that climbing triggered for me. It was like dancing, only better. And, each time I went back, I could feel myself getting stronger, and more confident, and that just made me want to climb more. Unfortunately, I found myself very prone to injury, spending large chunks of my first year of climbing sidelined with tendon over-use injuries. At some point, I realized I would need some professional help if I was going to stick with this climbing thing, and turned to my beloved friend and doctor, Judy Rayl, who referred me to a wonderful rheumatologist, Jennifer Gorman, in Seattle.

Dr. Gorman was an investigator. In my two or three visits to her office, she spent more time with me than any specialist ever had, in years of doctor visits. She took blood, she took family history, she ran tests… and when every single test came back with the same result: “you’re healthy as a horse,” she got really creative. Rather than just re-christen me a Fibromyalgia patient, she kept testing. During my second or third visit, she had me do some range of motion tests, and after the first one, she got really excited. She’d solved the puzzle. Those tests showed that my joints are hypermobile compared to normal, which makes me prone to repetitive stress injuries. She prescribed physical therapy for the injury I was dealing with at that time, and ever since, I’ve been able to manage my joints and tendons by careful training, ice and rest, and understanding my body mechanics and not putting my foot on a hold up by my ear just because I could. Where most climbers have to work on their flexibility, I have to work on not being as flexible, in order to reduce my risk of injury.

After a couple years of climbing pretty casually, and slowly building up my fitness and strength, I wanted to climb even more and really got serious about training for climbing so that I could hopefully climb more, with less risk of injury. It’s not about climbing superstar sick hard for me; it’s about being conditioned enough that I can climb days back to back (if I’m careful), at a moderate level, and keep building my skills with hopefully little downtime for injuries and rehab. For a little over a year, I’ve been “really training” as in, climbing as much as I can, eating really well, resting as well as I can, and doing climbing-specific strength training and developing my opposing muscles to keep my body in balance. A side effect of all the training is that my metabolism seems amped; I’ve gotten leaner and more muscly and now have to put effort into keeping weight on during the climbing season instead of the opposite.

Even though I feel fit, strong and healthy, the biggest benefits are that I haven’t had an asthma attack or a pharmaceutical for pain in years. The thought of going out and running around a freshly-cut grass field for an hour straight would have been unthinkable ten years ago, even with five different medications. That tonight, off the sofa, I could go run around and have fun and be able to breathe the entire time is a very, very cool thing.

It’s a pretty exciting moment when you find that thing that gets you off the sofa. Most of my climbing partners have been athletes their entire lives, but there are a few of us who didn’t start out that way, and I’m in good company. The conversation that actually triggered this blog post was with my friend John, one of the folks behind Team Never Stop Climbing. Between May and November of 2008, John lost 80 pounds — starting by walking 15 minutes a day, every day. John has climbed more stairs than any other human being I’ve ever talked to, and is getting ready for ascents of three Colorado 14-ers in four days this month. I just climb rocks, and here’s John, getting ready to summit mountains after managing to fit a truly amazing amount of training and effort into a very busy life.

I enjoy talking to all sorts of climbers, in all sorts of disciplines, and from all sorts of starting places… but it’s really fun to hear stories from folks whose lives and health are so dramatically improved because they’ve found that “thing” to get them moving. Now it’s your turn. Where were you, before climbing?

Edit:
This post is eliciting some fun responses from friends who’ve blogged about their own “athleticism” in the past, and, some new posts as well. My trackbacks have never worked the way I think they should (eh, blogger) so here are a few links from friends:

• Paul, on how his body is like a motorcycle
• Katie, with a story somewhat similar to mine, on where she was before climbing

Send me your links, if I’ve missed any… Thanks!

Filed under: The climbing life

Jamie Clarke, "Above All Else" Everest Presentation

Earlier this week, I was lucky enough to make it to Seattle for one of Jamie Clarke’s Everest slideshows and presentations at my alma mater, Seattle University. Jamie is a climber (a “real” climber — like, mountains) preparing for a 2010 Everest expedition, sponsored by Champion.

Though upgraded to PowerPoint, Jamie’s presentation is a captivating slideshow of Everest images, woven with the stories that make up his definition of success. From start to finish, all I could think about was how much we have in common as mountain people, and how comforting it is to hear stories from other mountain people, despite the fact that we engage in such different mountain activities. Being a climber has changed my definition of success; I find successes in experiences that others would see as total failures. Jamie’s internalized that lesson, as well.

I can’t share my favorite part, since it would give it away for those of you who may attend one of his shows, but I’ll just say… I’ll never look at toilet paper, or potato chips, the same way.

Jamie’s currently touring universities, with stops coming up in Denver, CO. Watch your local newspaper for details, but here’s the basics to get you started:

• April 28, 7pm – University of Denver, Auditorium (corrected date)
• April 29, 7pm – University of Colorado, Boulder, Munzinger Auditorium
• April 30, 7pm – Colorado State University, Student Center
• May 1, 7pm – University of Wyoming, Classroom Building, Rm 217

Safe travels, and safe adventure, Jamie!

Filed under: Events

When the French say "il pleut à verse" they’re not talking wine…

I have yet to travel internationally for climbing (not counting Squamish), or anything else, for that matter (not counting Canada) — but luckily I’ve got friends to serve as scout party and inspiration for my future international adventures. When Lauren Yant tweeted that she was on her way to Fontainebleau, in part for a climbing trip, I asked if she’d be willing to write a guest post. She agreed, but then when she got back, she was discouraged because they’d had lousy weather and hadn’t gotten in as much climbing as planned. We chatted a bit, and my take is… sometimes that’s what climbing trips are. So, I’m thankful that Lauren was willing to still write, and she sent the following story and pictures.

Here is the first in what I hope will be a series of international adventure stories from my guest-posting, world-traveling friends… at least until I get my own passport again, sometime soon!

About Lauren Yant
Lauren is an outdoorswoman and marketing professional based in Salt Lake City. She’s also the style, brains, and everything else behind Ruthie Pearl, her line of funky, fantastic reusable tote bags. For more information about Lauren, connect with her on Twitter or visit RuthiePearl.com.

Special! Lauren set up a coupon code for rockclimbergirl.com readers. If you use the coupon code theclimbergirl at checkout on RuthiePearl.com, you’ll save 20%. Thank you, Lauren!

Now, here’s Lauren’s story!

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Our “climbing” trip to France started on a lazy Sunday afternoon at the Blue Plate Diner in Salt Lake City. My boyfriend, Scott, had always wanted to climb at Fontainebleu. And me? I just wanted to go to Europe. I turned to Scott while enjoying my fry sauce (THE world’s best condiment, note), and I said, “Let’s do it. Let’s book our trip to France.” That afternoon, we started searching for flights and finally settled on two tickets at just under $700 each (not a bad deal at the time).

The next few weeks were spent anticipating and planning for our trip. We found an amazing deal on a “gite” in the small town of Trezan just minutes from the climbing areas of Fontainebleu. We were to land at Charles de Gaulle, rent a car, and drive there to stay and climb for one week. After that, it was on to Paris for a week of sightseeing, eating, more eating and enjoying cheap (but delicious) wine.

Upon landing in France, it was obvious that our plans would have to change. It was raining. Not a torrential downpour–but raining. And kind of non-stop. We drove into Paris to find wi-fi and check the local forecast. Rain. Rain for the next week. And then (of course), sunshine for our week in Paris. I was quite distraught–mostly because I knew that Scott had dreamed about this trip for years. We decided to make the most of the situation and drive our car to Luxembourg…after…yes, about 20 hours of travel. We stopped at multiple rest stops on the five-hour drive and took naps. I vaguely remember the drive and our arrival in the city.

For the next three nights, we stayed in various hotels in Luxembourg for around 100-160 euros/night. Not the cheapest, but it was the best we could do on such short notice. We walked all around Luxembourg (where Scott grew up), and we even visited two castles on the countryside. The food was divine, and the scenery was equally impressive. However, I wanted to be the typical American tourist and “rack up as many countries as I could” in one visit. With that, we were off to the oldest city in Germany, Trier (just an hour’s drive from Luxembourg).

We stayed in a nice but reasonable hotel run by Days Inn. I would have preferred something more quaint, but at the rate we were going with our spending, it was the best option. For two nights, we enjoyed waffles with nutella, ancient ruins, German accents and vending machine beer. In sum, Trier was probably my favorite city.

After a relaxing couple of nights in Trier, the clouds began to melt. We decided to drive back to France to spend a couple nights in our gite and check out the boulders at Fontainebleu. The gite, just 230 euros for a week, was super. My only complaint was the shower. It had no door or curtain, and the entire floor got soaked every time I used it. Bed linens were also not included in our rent…but these things seemed relatively common throughout Europe (especially the shower thing–they have really weird showers).

The nearest “town” to Trezan was Malesherbes–so we went there the next morning to get a couple of baguettes and pastries for our day on the rocks. One of our funniest memories was the owner of the local grocery who was so proud of his “English.” Every time we would walk out of the store, he would say, “Hello!” in the same tone you would tell someone “goodbye.” He seemed so proud of his ability to speak to us that we never corrected him. We just waved, smiled, and filed it in the good memories bank.

The first day of bouldering was mellow. We went to Buthiers, and everything is put up in kind of a “circuit”–you select your level of difficulty, start on #1, and go from there to climb around 30-40 boulders in one workout. I climbed mostly on the orange circuit–probably around V1-V3. Scott worked some harder things, but the moisture on the rocks and our lack of a crash pad made for a bad combination. It should also be noted that there is a large amount of quartzite on these rocks–not a good combo with small footholds and wet shoes. (Think Horsepens slopers mixed with Ibex glass and water = no bueno.)

To elaborate on the lack of a crashpad: yes, there were places to rent pads near the climbing areas. Our decision not to get one was based 1) on the moisture present and not knowing whether we would even be able to climb and 2) our feeling that we should do as the French do…you know, just wipe off your feet and go. This was definitely bad judgment as Scott has about 60 pounds on me…and there’s no way I can even spot him. And even though the landings are generally good and sandy, there’s nothing like a day of jumping/falling down from 10 feet to make your feet excruciatingly sore for a week.

Anyway, the next day we went to a different, much better climbing area–Trois Pignons. When we set our eyes on this magical playland of boulders, we began to second-guess our decision to spend the next week in Paris. There were plenty of folks around willing to share their crashpads, and the whole scene was simply captivating. From babies to elderly men, everyone was climbing. I began to understand why Americans get so overweight–they don’t have places like this to go with their families, and where they do, they definitely don’t take advantage of it. It was on that day that I decided I wanted to move to the French countryside. And Scott, of course, was totally down with it…”as long as there’s bouldering nearby.” And bouldering nearby, there was. Everywhere.

After a sun-filled day of climbing in the 65-degreesish weather, we packed our car and somewhat sadly headed to Paris. Our climbing wasn’t over yet, though…

About three days into our French sightseeing (the Louvre, the Notre Dame, the Seine, etc. etc. etc.), we were walking down a crowded street near the Bastille when a curious thing happened. “Salt Lake City! Salt Lake City!” I heard someone yell. I turned to see several familiar faces sitting at a cafe enjoying coffee and a couple smokes. It was some of our climber friends from The Front (an amazing bouldering gym in SLC). We chatted for a while and learned that they had another week or two of climbing and were staying near our original location in Melun. So a couple days later, Scott and I took a train there to get in another day of climbing.

Our third and final day of climbing was somewhat windy and cold…but at the same time, I think it sort of made my trip. I almost finished a problem that I didn’t even consider to be within my range (maybe a V4-V5), and we met some wildly interesting people from around the world. Perhaps my favorite was the 70+-year-old guy in the biker shorts (with a hole in the crotch, no less) who was climbing harder than anyone else there. I also loved the large number of kids who could barely walk that were running around in climbing shoes. When these folks do it, they REALLY do it.

We drove back to Paris and finished our trip with some relaxing days visiting the Eiffel Tower, taking the train to Versailles, and climbing the 300 steps to the top of the Sacre Coeur. But the weird climbing coincidences weren’t over just yet…

On the train back to the airport to catch our departing flight, we overheard the people sitting next to us talking about their flight to SLC. They were clearly American (as they had their new scarves and berets in tow), and maybe even from Salt Lake. I thought it curious that of all the trains headed to Charles de Gaulle out of France, we would be on the same one. But then, when we got off the train, we saw two more of our friends from The Front. It turns out that we were sitting next to their parents the whole time, and almost their entire family was in the train car with us.

So…an amazing trip. Good bouldering, good food, good wine and good friends. And The Front? Turns out it bring a lot of people together. I guess it’s a climbing thing–it truly is a small world, isn’t it?

Bottom line: Fontainbleu. Highly recommended. Sort of a cross between Horsepens and Ibex with a French accent. The weather could have been better for us, but we’ll be back again–probably more than once.

Filed under: Guest Posts, Trip Reports

Get Outside Gear Guide from Rockclimbergirl.com, Spring 2009

.nobrtable br { display: none }OK, ladies… here’s the first annual Spring Gear Guide from yours truly. I’ve scoured catalogs, stores, and websites to bring you my picks for this season. Some items aren’t new, but they’re new to me, and these goodies are from all across my climbing life, including crag, camp and miscellany. Instead of just providing the manufacturer specs like some of the other gear guides, I’m featuring each item of gear here because I either have it and love it; or, because I have it on my real life wish list and am lusting after it.

About Me
I’m an avid climber, in it since the winter of 2004. I balance my climbing life with a professional life (private solo practice attorney, environmental policy work for the Puget Sound Partnership, and freelance writing and editing in the outdoor industry). I climb as often as possible — usually, twice a week or so in the local climbing gym, two or three weekends per month outside around the Pacific Northwest, and I take a few travel trips each year, mostly around the Western United States. I don’t discriminate when it comes to climbing — I like it all. Bouldering, sport, trad, long, short… if it’s rock, I love it.

All of this means that I use a LOT of gear. Camping, climbing, travel, and lifestyle — my apartment looks more like an REI garage sale than a dwelling.

TheClimberGirl’s Love It Enough to Marry It List: Helmets: Petzl Passive Pro: DMM Active Pro: Black Diamond Equipment and Metolius Ropes and Slings: Bluewater Ropes First Aid: Adventure Medical Kits Apparel: Mountain Hardwear and Lole

Have It, Love It, Spring 2009 Arc’Teryx R280 Harness Ibex Balance Underwear and Tanks End Footwear Trail Thong Julbo USA Angel Sunglasses Arc’Teryx Miura 50 Crag Pack Adventure Medical Kits Women’s Edition Outdoor Kit Sea to Summit X-Mug Sierra Summits Adventure Tube Sunscreen and, some additional Honorable Mentions from LEKI, Voodoo Climbing and Petzl on gear you’ll hear more about in upcoming posts.

Am Lusting After It, Spring 2009 Mountain Hardwear Women’s Cloud Rest Sleeping Bag Omega Pacific Link Cams Red Chili Matador BlueWater Ropes Titan Loop Chain Lole Swimwear Kelty Kitchen Sink Naturally Bamboo Ethical Apparel MSR Dragonfly or Coleman Exponent Feather Camp Stove

Keep reading, for the detailed reviews of the items on my “Have It, Love It,” and “Am Lusting After It” lists!

Have It, Love It
Arc’Teryx R280 Harness
I know I’m late to the ultralight harness party, but I didn’t just want to jump on the hype bandwagon. My harness saga has been ongoing, and I just can’t find a fit in a conventional harness, though, so recently I started looking at the ultralights. The Arc’Teryx R280 is working out fantastically for me, and it’s the harness I turn to first at this point whether I’m inside or out.

This harness gets the highest praise I can imagine for a harness: I don’t even think about it when it’s on, whether I’m belaying or climbing. After years of ill-fitting harnesses, ranging from semi-uncomfortable to actually drawing blood around my hips, I’m used to my harness being a source of discomfort and annoyance during a climbing day. The Arc’Teryx, on the other hand, goes on and I could almost forget it’s there. Whether belaying or taking falls, the harness has exceeded my expectations. Most of all, though, this harness is a perfect example of the importance of fit.

I’ve never tried on a non-adjustable-leg-loop harness that actually fit me. Usually, even the womens’ models are either too small in the legs or too big in the waist. And, with other self-locking buckle harnesses I’ve tried, I’ve had to undo the self-locking buckle to get the harness over my hips, in order to have it fit properly around my waist. No bueno.

On the other hand, I was surprised when I consulted the Arc’Teryx size chart and tried the harness size my measurements indicated and it fit perfectly. I didn’t have to undo the self-locking buckle to get the harness over my hips, and the leg loops fit closely but are not tight (since I’m at my “winter weight,” the leg loop fit will only get more roomy as I get into “climbing shape”). We’re all different, but if you’re like me, and have had trouble fitting other brands, take a look at the Arc’Teryx line.

Even without the traditional padding, this harness is comfortable. I wore the harness to work my hardest ever redpoint attempt on a sport route last weekend, including hangs and lead falls, and had no discomfort or bruising (I literally don’t know the harness is there, except for the fact that it does its job).

Gear loops are adequate for sport or trad climbing, and the drop seat is easy to operate. I got to see a rundown of the technical, design and strength specs on this harness by my friends at Waypoint Outdoors, one highlight of which is that Arc’Teryx has repurposed scrap fabric from its outerwear line for the fabric cover for the webbing “guts” (a nice, “green” touch). My harness advice remains the same: shop for fit, fit, fit and fit. I’m just pleased to have finally found a harness that actually fits me.

More information about Arc’Teryx: http://www.arcteryx.com

Ibex Balance Underwear and Tanks
Boys, just go to the Ibex site and check out the men’s underwear. Now, skip to the next item in the review, kindly.

Girls, you’ve got to check out this underwear. So many of my reviews start with “I was really skeptical that…” and here’s another. Growing up, I never wore wool — my mom is sensitive to it, and I always found it itchy and uncomfortable — until I found my beloved and trusty Ibex Wool baselayer on clearance from Zappos.com (similar to this top). I have since worn that top on nearly every climbing trip I’ve been on (first recorded pictures of it are on route during my Joshua Tree trip back in 2006). It’s provided a warmth layer or sun layer, depending on conditions, and it’s practically a second skin. After wearing out my other synthetic next-to-skin items earlier this year, I decided to give the Ibex underwear and tanks a try.

I’ll make a long story a little shorter, and just say — the Ibex Balance tops and underwear are multiplying like bunnies in my underwear drawer. They’re comfortable for long days of travel, climbing, and life… I’ve lived in the Balance Briefs, Balance Thongs, and Balance Sports Top since the first order arrived. They’re the first items I pull out of the “clean clothes” pile after I do my laundry. They aren’t a bit itchy, the fit is ideal for active pursuits, and they really do stay fresher smelling than synthetic baselayers even during long, hygiene-challenged trips.

The Balance line hand or machine washes easily, and hangs dry overnight. I’ve already washed a few of my pieces a bunch of times, and they still look brand new. I know that wool underwear might sound crazy — but I even have to put in a thumbs up for the Balance Thong, and I’m not a thong girl. Where usually a thong-wearing attempt means coming home to change after a few hours because they’re so uncomfortable, my first day of trying the Ibex Balance Thong I actually forgot what I had on… did a whole work day, then a climbing session at the gym, then got home and started to change and was (seriously, don’t make fun) shocked that I’d completely forgotten about my underwear. I’m sold, and I’m slowly swapping out my synthetics and cotton underthings in favor of more Ibex items.

More information about Ibex Outdoor Clothing: http://www.ibexwear.com

END Footwear Trail Thong
END Footwear, based in Portland, Oregon, is in their second season of production with an emphasis on road and trail running, light hikers and water shoes. I’ve had a correspondence going with END since they joined Twitter and have been impressed from a distance with their emphasis on sustainability and environmental impact (and not just as marketing buzz words).

I haven’t tried their trail runners or light hikers yet, but I’m in love with my END Footwear Trail Thongs (Men’s version also available). I’ve been wearing cheap, old flip flops at the gym and around the crag for the last few years, but figured out that they seem to aggravate the foot cramps I sometimes get while climbing. When I tried on the END Trail Thong I was impressed… light, comfortable soles with a great fit on the upper. After wearing them almost nonstop around the gym and town, I knew I liked them. They made my “love” list after I wore them for a climbing day at Vantage. They stayed on my feet so well I wore them almost all day; never once did I almost lose a sandal. I even unintentionally hiked a steep, loose scree slope in them (something I usually reserve for my heavy duty approach shoes) and they held, stayed on, and did their job. They’ve got a nice soft sole, which makes my feet feel like they’re getting stronger, and they’re great for around the gym, crag, and casual wear.

More information about END Footwear: http://www.endfootwear.com

Julbo USA Angel Sunglasses
I’ve been wearing the same pair of Julbo Lights for, I think, ten plus years. I bought them from the REI Outlet way back in my first round of road cycling days, and they’ve been my “active glasses” ever since. They’re light, grippy, and sit close to the face, which makes them handy for climbing. When I saw the Julbo Angels, another close-fitting, suitable for small faces frame, I was excited to try them out. First impression was that they may pinch behind my ears, but I have found, in wearing them long stretches in the car and during a climbing trip, that they’re actually really comfortable (and unlike my Lights, they stay on, without the silicone pads behind my ears that sometimes catch and pull long hair). They give me a bit more coverage than my Lights, and they seriously don’t budge on my face. They feature a thicker, durable feeling frame but are still super light, and they fit nicely even with my helmets. I decided to buck my own convention and love the pink ones, but they come in black, too.

More information about Julbo USA: http://www.julbousa.com

Arc’Teryx Miura 50
I’m a pack connoisseur. My stable is extensive. And the newest addition is the Miura 50. This isn’t a backpacker-pack-turned-climbing-pack… this sucker is, ground up, a climb pack. Instead of a traditional drawstring top closure, creating a choke point for stuffing gear, this bag features a wide, roll-top closure that’s easy to open, easy to load, and easy to secure. In addition, the bag zips entirely open for easy access at the crag thanks to two full length, heavy duty zippers on the sides. There are two outer front pocket for first aid kit, lunch and miscellaneous other, and two big, reinforced gear loops inside for organization. The Miura also has a feature I’m noticing on the newer packs out this year — splendidly molded waist belts that are shaped to the curve of the wearer’s hip. For a full sized, no-suspension crag pack, this is my top choice and I’ve recommended it to a number of friends already. The “Short” fits me perfectly (this is a unisex pack, so fit accordingly).

More information about Arc’teryx: http://www.arcteryx.com

Adventure Medical Kits Women’s Edition Outdoor Medical Kit
AMK recently released a pack-sized Women’s Edition Outdoor Medical Kit, with all the basics from the kits we’ve used and loved for years, plus those few extras we all wind up stuffing into a ziplock or shoving into our already overstuffed medical kits. Not to mention, the “extras” AMK added to the Women’s Edition could come in handy for boys, too (I have more than one climbing partner who is prone to nosebleeds, for example). Tampons, waste disposal bags, and generic “Cramp Tabs” (Acetaminophen plus a diuretic) round out this impressively complete kit, which also includes hand sanitizer, a handbook on wilderness and travel medicine more complete than the kits I’ve used in the past, basic first aid medications, wound care items, dressings, an elastic bandage, blister gear, safety pins and a “splinter picker/tick remover.” AMK “didn’t make it pink, and didn’t pack it with lipstick & nail files,” according to the hang tag. Somehow, they managed to pack more into a smaller package than my current, now retired-to-the-medicine-cabinet kit.

More information about Adventure Medical Kits: http://www.adventuremedicalkits.com

Sea to Summit X-Mug
I’m a little embarrassed to admit the extent of my love for the Sea to Summit X line, but here goes. I eat my breakfast cereal out of my X-Bowl almost every day. When I saw the X-Mug I was a bit skeptical of whether the flexible, collapsible silicone would stay upright and secure enough for consuming hot beverages… in test runs at home and in the field, I haven’t had the mug collapse on me once. The X-Mug doubles as a two-cup measuring cup (score), it nests perfectly in my X-Bowl for packing, and the rigid plastic around the top both keeps the cup stable, and, gives you a non-hot place to hold the cup when in use. I also just played with an X-Plate while out shopping yesterday and it’s now on my wish list. The X-Plate makes an awesome cutting board, something my camp box has been lacking.

More information about Sea to Summit: http://www.seatosummit.com

Sierra Summits Adventure Tube Sunscreen
Sometimes I get an email from a PR company or rep that catches my attention and merits an immediate response… the inquiry I received a few months ago from Sierra Summits about their Adventure Tube Sunscreen was one of them. I am fair skinned and light-haired, and I was packing for a trip to Red Rock at the time, so was excited to get to try out a sunscreen designed for use at altitude. I was really impressed with this sunscreen. It isn’t exactly “disappearing” on your hands — it is a rub-on application, and it has a bit of slip to it, so I did have to spit-wash my hands and rub ‘em on my pants before climbing to get my grip back, but that’s acceptable (and I haven’t met a lotion yet that didn’t require that. I usually use the spray ons to avoid having to touch them, but they have obvious drawbacks too (environment, overspray, propellants + ropes = no bueno)).

I typically apply sunscreen in the morning when I’m getting dressed, then again when I get to the crag, then again mid-day. Because of the nature of this trip, I only had one chance per day to apply sunscreen. Even with one application per day, in tons of sun, I didn’t burn one bit (except my lips — the very first day, I assumed the lip product was sunscreen since the packaging matched the packaging on the sunblock… oops! my lips sizzle fried as a result, but I did use sunblock from another manufacturer on my lips the rest of the time, and found the Sierra Summits lip moisturizer to be very soothing and healing as a non-SPF lip option). My climbing partners, who weren’t using sunscreen, were fried after day one — so it wasn’t a matter of conditions.

As a side benefit — usually, I tend to have a skin reaction to chemical sunscreen. I use them anyway, because the skin irritation is not a long term risk, while sun exposure is. I just assumed that I’d have the same issue with this one given that it contained non-physical sunscreens … and very much to my surprise, I didn’t. My skin did great with it, despite not-terribly hygenic conditions. Once it stops raining here in the PNW, this may become my daily sunscreen.

More information about Sierra Summits: http://www.sierrasummits.com

Honorable Mentions:
The amazingly wonderful folks at Voodoo Climbing (welcome, Lisa Rands, to the family there!) are the U.S. distributor for the Moon Climbing Hangboard (when they can keep it in stock) I’d hang if I owned a place to hang it, they make climbing holds, bouldering pads (and sweet dog beds), and swanky chalk bags. Not currently available on the website, but in regular rotation in my wardrobe, are my beloved Voodoo schwag t-s and hoody.

I’m relying on trekking poles substantially less than I used to since my knees have gotten so much better over the years of climbing and hiking. As a result, I haven’t had an opportunity to really put these through their paces yet, but I have retired my old, frustrating trekking poles in favor of a pair of LEKI Wildflower Series Diva Aergon Antishock Trekking Poles. My old poles would come loose (as in, they’d go from compact/packed to expanded) when stowed on my pack while hiking, so I had to stop to tighten the adjustment on them every once in awhile. They were also a hassle to expand and close even though they replaced my first pair which were even more of a hassle to expand and close. The LEKI poles don’t budge while stowed, and they have a super comfortable grip, which fits my hands like a glove. They’re super light, they seem quieter than the poles I’ve used in the past, and I’m excited to get them out for more rigorous testing as the summer goes on.

I’ve also been breaking in a Petzl Altios helmet. I’ve been climbing in Petzl Elios helmets since I started, and have loved the Elios since going up to a size 2 last year, which is a much better fit for my fat head (and long hair) than the size 1. The Altios performed comfortably for me (and a climbing partner, who also tried it out) during my last trip out, both for belaying and while climbing. The mesh suspension on the interior does keep the helmet in position a tiny bit better than the Elios, and the helmet is lightweight and comfortable when on. The profile is a tiny bit higher than the Elios, so I anticipate I’ll crag in the Elios but will use the Altios whenever I’m at a location with a higher rockfall risk, and, for my North Cascade adventures this year. If you’ve been on the fence about buying or wearing a helmet, check out this year’s lineup.

Am Lusting After It (aka, the Wish List):

Mountain Hardwear Women’s Clouds Rest
I’ve been using the same twenty degree synthetic sleeping bag now for YEARS, and the last two seasons the insulation is really showing its age. I have cold spots where there’s absolutely no fill, and since I’m 5 foot 6 inches tall, I’m right on the cusp of a regular length or tall length womens’ sleeping bag. I tend to prefer regulars now that I’m used to them, so that I don’t have too much dead air in the bag, but finding a fit has historically been a challenge. I have yet to snuggle down inside the Mountain Hardwear Women’s Clouds Rest bag, but on paper, it’s the one I’ve been looking for in stores to take a closer look at, and I’ll post an update once I’ve gotten my hands on it.

More information about Mountain Hardwear: http://www.mountainhardwear.com

Omega Pacific Link Cams
For two years running, the Omega Pacific Link Cams have been on my wish list — I’ve been trying to accumulate micros, first, though, since the Link Cams will be doubling up on sizes I already at least have singles in. This might be the year, though, since I’m still undecided on the rest of my micro acquisitions, and the Link Cams just came out in two new sizes (Purple and Green). The Link Cams appeal to me for their ability to protect flaring cracks, which I run into with alarming regularity on trad routes, and, as “oh, I wish I hadn’t left my Yellow Camalot on the anchor” doubles for my Black Diamond Camalots.

More information about Omega Pacific: http://www.omegapac.com

Red Chili Matador
Now, these might be overkill for me. I mean, I’m not climbing 5.14 or bouldering v10. I adore my Red Chili Corona VCRs, and I just had my trad shoes resoled, so I don’t plan to rush out and buy any new shoes right away. I’m well stocked with those two pairs I’m happy with. My VCRs, after I can’t remember how many trips and gym sessions, are almost due for a resole, so when I started looking for a resoler who uses Red Chili’s RX1 rubber, I saw that this new show is coming out for 2009. While the toe down and “new designer upper” are lost on me, I like that these are a synthetic — while potentially smelly, it makes dialing in fit a bit easier for folks who aren’t as familiar with Red Chili’s sizing — and, I love that they’ve got three velcro straps instead of two. Someday, climbing shoe manufacturers will figure out why they shouldn’t make climbing shoes in the color black, but if I *were* in the market for shoes for my bouldering trips in the shade at Squamish, these are what I’d pick up.

More information about Red Chili: http://redchili.de

BlueWater Titan Loop Chain
I never understood the benefits of a loop chain over a daisy until I had to aid the bolt ladder on Eagle Dance at Red Rock. Suddenly, what usually seems like child’s play — clipping the correct, safe, loop on my anchor daisy — because a completely complicated matter requiring way more attention than my tired and frustrated body had to spare. After two bolts, I made a mental note to pick up a loop chain. The BlueWater Titan Loop Chain is a super light, strong personal anchor option, when used according to the instructions. I typically use two slings as an anchor but more and more am using my daisy and a sling; the BlueWater Loop Chain is what I plan to pick up to retire my daisy.

More information about BlueWater Ropes: http://www.bluewaterropes.com

Lole Swimwear
OK, I know most people don’t think of swimwear as climbing gear, but hear me out. I spend most of the warm weather season climbing in swimsuit tops and shorts. Finally, one of my favorite apparel manufacturers is making swimwear for girls like me. I haven’t yet gotten to see the line in real life, but some of the tops look PERFECT for my might-be-seen-at-the-crag-when-it’s-too-hot-for-a-shirt-then-let’s-take-a-dip-in-the-lake days (see, e.g., the Regatta Sweetheart Top, pictured here). I’ve been a fan of Lole’s line for both activewear and work-appropriate wear as well, so am excited to see this line of swimwear for truly active women.

More information about Lole: http://www.lolewomen.com

Kelty Kitchen Sink
I came across this while browsing on a recent shopping trip, and it almost came home with me. I’ve been using a collapsible bucket for years, but the Kelty Kitchen Sink is a nifty step up. The center storage/sink is the perfect size for transporting my “camp kitchen” when not in use, and holds water for dishwashing. The sides pop out as dish drainers, even.

More information about Kelty: http://www.kelty.com

Naturally Bamboo Ethical Apparel
I haven’t yet met a Naturally Bamboo product in person, but I’ve been keeping an eye on them since getting connected on Twitter. They’re gearing up to release a baselayer line at the Summer Outdoor Retailer Show in July, and I’m looking forward to seeing the line up. More and more I’m finding myself looking at fabrics other than conventional cotton and synthetics for baselayers, and I love the feel of bamboo fabrics against the skin. I’m excited to see what they come up with in their baselayer line.

More information about Naturally Bamboo Ethical Apparel: http://www.naturallybambooclothing.com

MSR Dragonfly Camp Stove, or maybe the Coleman Exponent Feather. I can’t decide.
I’ve been bumming stove time from my buddies ever since last spring, but I think I’ve finally decided on the stove I’d like to live with, long term relationship style. I’d actually decided on the Coleman Exponent Feather Backpacking Stove after bonding with my climbing partner’s older version of that model … it boils water faster than any other stove I’ve tried, and I don’t know, there’s just something about it I like. It’s sturdy, the cooking surface is close to the flame so it’s good and efficient, and it’s more adjustable (simmer to boil) than some of the backpacking stoves I’ve tried. I just have a very soft spot for that stove after the time we spent together at Joshua Tree. But, while shopping stoves last weekend, I looked again at the MSR line and the MSR Dragonfly may be calling my name. I like that, unlike the Coleman, the fuel bottle is separate from the stove assembly, so when not in use the fuel bottle can be closed up snug. My climbing partner’s Coleman doesn’t leak; but my instinct is that I’d worry less about leakage with bottles to close, than with the stove assembly to worry about. We’ll see. I may change my mind again… the Coleman just has so much character, and it really does boil water FAST. I’ll let you know what I decide.

More information about MSR: http://www.msrgear.com
More information about Coleman: http://www.coleman.com

What’s Missing?
I still haven’t found climbing pants I adore, though I appreciate all of the great suggestions you’ve sent in over the last few months. I still climb in my $19 Calvin Klein cords from Costco about 90% of the time, and an ancient pair of no-butt-left GAP jeans the other 10%. I try on climbing pants a few times a year, so will keep you posted if I find the holy grail of fit, comfort, pockets and durability.

The other item I’ve got to retire this year but haven’t found a replacement for are my Five Ten Insight approach shoes. I’ve worn the traction nubbins down to almost nothing over the last three years, and as a result they no longer have the traction I’ve come to expect. I’ll likely wind up replacing them with another pair of… drumroll please… Five Ten Insights. But, I would like to see more variety in truly sticky, worthy-of-death-slab approach shoe options. Namely, a really well-built, light and fast, well-ventilated shoe with truly sticky rubber outsoles. I’ve talked to a couple of shoe manufacturers about this segment, and am excited by what I’m hearing in new product development… so will keep you posted!

Finally, I’m still undecided about a summit pack. Summit packs are an area that I’ve had the benefit and curse of using friends’ … it’s nice to get to try before you buy, but then when you really refine your criteria, it makes it harder to pull the trigger. I like a small pack that just barely fits a water bottle or two, two headlamps, two pair of approach shoes, and a couple of granola bars. Easily hookable arm-loops for cleaning gear to are also a key criteria. Nice, comfortable straps and a good fit are a bit harder to come by on these teeny packs, so I’m still shopping.

I’ve also decided to build-my-own when it comes to quickdraws, after climbing on friends’ for years. But, more on that in a separate post, after I actually choose my biners (I’m thinking Mammut, but will keep you posted).

Yawn…
Whew. That was a lot of work.

Thanks, as always, for reading and for sharing your own thoughts. Thanks also to Arc’Teryx, LEKI, Julbo, END Footwear, Petzl, Adventure Medical Kits and Sea to Summit for providing review samples in response to my inquiries; and special thanks to David, Dustin, Jessica, Gina, Larry, Dave, Brad and the Pemba crew, Bob and Jim and the Waypoint crew and (oh, I have to stop somewhere) … just ’cause you’re wonderful peeps who happen to work with way cool companies. Whether retail, pro deal or review sample, you’ll get my honest review here, of products I’ve hand picked — but the support and encouragement I’m receiving from manufacturers, reps and the industry at large is truly, truly appreciated.

Now it’s your turn…
Please chime in on your own favorites (new and old) in the comments, below.

Filed under: Gear

Help preserve climbing access at Lower Town Wall, Index, WA

Please join the effort to help preserve climbing access at the Lower Town Wall, at Index, WA. Index is one of my all time favorite climbing areas… it’s considered by some to be the highest quality climbing area in Washington, among other superlatives. This crag, in particular, is a centerpiece, and the climbing community has a rare opportunity to participate in the acquisition of the crag, which is up for sale by the private property owner. The parcel for sale is approximately 20 acres, and is home to Lower Town Wall, the Quarry and Inner Wall.

For now, please join the Friends of Index Facebook Group to get additional information and updates, and watch the Washington Climbers Coalition website and forums for updates and calls to action. In addition to actively participating in acquisition efforts and providing other support, our behavior as climbers will have a direct impact on this process. If you climb at Index, please regularly check those two resources so that you know what the current situation is, and what’s being requested of us as a community, and respect those requests.

Also, this, from the WCC info page on the topic:

“Now, more than ever, we are interested in seeing if we can purchase the property that includes Index Town Wall. Along with fundraising, valuation will be key if we are to discuss any possible purchase of the private property at Index. We would appreciate hearing from those who may know about environmental and safety regulations that would pertain to renewed quarrying on the site, the transport of materials and equipment over the railroad tracks, possibilities for other types of development, and issues related to the management of forest and recreational lands. We welcome assistance with and discussion of raising money for any possible purchase, planning for ongoing management by a climbers group, land trust, or government agency, and the actual conduct of efforts to bring this matter to a favorable conclusion.”

Please join in, if you can. Thanks, and I’ll post updates here as well…

Filed under: Access, Index

Fear of falling, part three… taking it outside

Yesterday was a super fantastic day at Vantage (Frenchman’s Coulee) here in Washington… it’s one of my “home” crags, at only about three hours away from where I live. We got an early but not alpine start, and by the time we got out there around 9am, the place was PACKED. As in, more cars and more tents than I’ve ever seen there before. But, we managed to find a nice quiet crag that we had mostly to ourselves for the day. There were a few other parties, but we avoided the circus of the more populated areas, which were extremely busy. It turned out nice. The weather was beautiful… my freckles popped out big time, despite sunscreen… and it was nice to get some sun and warmth. The guys and Candace all pulled hard… we had a party of five leaders, and picked up a fun sixth at the crag, so we got in a lot of climbing and solid leads all the way around.

The climbing was fun. We started harder than I usually do, and I had fun alternating between leading projects at my onsight level, and toproping harder ones. One of the harder routes was really inspiring… I finished it clean on my second or third toprope try, then had a snack and rested up to work it on lead.

My first lead attempt was okay… I got up to the crux, which was well-protected by a bolt, and I chickened out. That lead to me tossing a mini-wobbler… partly, I was scared. Partly, my grip had just totally given out, so I knew that moving above the bolt would just mean a fall for sure based on how my hands felt, so I took and got grief for it from my climbing partners who thought I looked strong and on my way to a send.

But, I figured I’d rather not take an unnecessary risk when I knew my hands didn’t have it in them to get to the anchors, and took another rest and snack break. I lost track of how many times I tried the route on lead… but I made progress on each go. On my last run on it, I was tired, and my skin was starting to say “enough is enough.” I tried to summons enough energy to finish it up… I pulled the crux, clipped the next bolt, and moved above the bolt thinking I had JUST enough juice to finish it off even though I could feel the fatigue. I got to where my waist was a few feet above the bolt, and my grip was gone… I could feel the slight twinge of desperation and the increased fatigue as my footwork suffered, and the animal noises of stress and tension started up… and I did what I used to do in the gym when I knew I was going to reluctantly fall … I called out “falling” and then hung on as long as I could before my hands slid off the tenuous holds, my grip failing. I let out a blood-curdling scream of fear on my way down… it wasn’t more than a six or seven foot fall, but I haven’t ever really taken falls outside, so I was super scared. My belayer caught me, perfectly.

I apologized for making so much noise… thanked my belayer for the catch, especially after my wobbler earlier in the day, took a few deep breaths to ward of the tears that sometimes come for just a few seconds after I push to my limit outside… then knew despite being super tired I had to finish it up, so rested long enough until I thought I could get to the anchors and then moved up again. The true crux of the route is clipping the anchors — I wasn’t able to get them clipped on that last attempt in good style, I had to grab a draw.

But… it was still awesome, despite my frustration with myself for getting scared enough to toss a little wobbler with one of my most wonderful, most trustworthy climbing partners on that first belay, and scared enough to make all that unnecessary noise on the last. And, despite the fact that I didn’t actually send on lead.

The old Sara would never have tried a lead that hard, under any circumstances… and would never have taken a risk that would lead to even a small fall like that. The old Sara wouldn’t have been able to get back on the rock after the first unsuccessful lead go because I wouldn’t have been able to calm my fear enough to get my head back on straight, and the old Sara wouldn’t have been able to get back on after taking a lead fall. I’m a little bit bummed that I still don’t have a perfect sequence worked out for getting the draws up on the anchor and then getting them clipped — because of the awkward finish, I’ll have to have someone get the draws on the anchor for me to try it again. But, even so, I’m excited about the day, and look forward to doing better next time… trying to stay more calm, not let my fear grip me, and to remember while I’m on lead that climbing is fun, and part of climbing is falling on occasion, and my belayer will catch me.

My climbing partner (and other climbing partners who’ve given me the same advice) are right… working harder stuff on lead (at least on bolts) IS more fun. It’s easier to find harder, project-worthy routes that are closely bolted with clean falls, than the easier stuff. It’s going to take me awhile to really internalize that — but yesterday definitely helped prove it to me.

On the hike out, even though it had been some time since that last go, and since the fall, my little brain was still having trouble processing all the conflicting feelings about it. I felt like the fall was a mix of exhilaration, fun, and fear all wrapped into one. I don’t really know how to describe it — but at the moment it happened, and then in retrospect, I had more positive feelings than negative ones, which was cool.

Thanks, all, for all of your contributions and thoughts on the topic… keep ‘em coming, and I’ll keep you posted on the saga…

Filed under: Vantage