Memorial Weekend bouldering, Leavenworth, WA

The holiday weekend took me to Leavenworth, WA for a mostly-bouldering adventure. Proving, yet again, that there is PLENTY of moderate bouldering in Leavenworth, we hit up the Beach and Swiftwater areas at Tumwater Canyon, and had a kinda short session at the Fridge Boulder in Icicle Canyon, along with some good time on Classic Crack and the surrounding routes. This time around, I’ll emphasize the pictures for once!

First stop, as usual, was Leavenworth Mountain Sports (aka, Der Mountain Hausen). Randy, Bounder and Zin all needed shoes. I’ve said this before, but I’ll say it again. Support Leavenworth Mountain Sports. Their sale racks are kick butt, their womens’ apparel selection is completely out of this world, and they’re stocked with essentials for camping and climbing. Shouts out to Kate and Cherly, who put up with our herd of boys cracking dirty jokes each morning while we picked up out last minute “must have’s.” You ladies rock, and your impeccable taste is matched only by the circumference of your biceps and your tolerance for dirty jokes.

We started out at Tumwater Canyon, the Beach Area, at Leavenworth, WA. It was here that Gear Rescuer (aka, GR) began his tear it up weekend. After sending a tougher variation of The Fin (V2) as a warm up, he made short work of a number of V3s. Here’s Jumper (V3).

And, Randy taking a turn…

And then next up was the Wonderkid (aka, Zin, or Zen, or Boo, or apparently his real name might be Mike). He’s only climbed a couple of times, and I think this was his first day in his own rock shoes. He was a TOTAL natural, and got a lot of encouragement from us old crusties to stick with it.

From there, we worked around the boulder, with a send by GR of U2, another V3; and then the guys and I worked (and some sent, but I didn’t yet) “F*ck the Crystal,” a V3 with delightful body tension and footwork required down low, to a slanting rail, with a dyno to the top. Here’s GR set up for what was ultimately a successful dyno and topout.

Day two took us to the Fridge boulder to start, in Icicle canyon. I have a V3 project on the Fridge that I still haven’t gotten — I seriously need to work my dynamic movement to someday get Cellar Door done. The guys took turns on Fridge Center (V4) and Fridge Right (V4). GR had a great flash on Fridge Center, and the boys all worked Fridge Right.

We had a pretty quiet morning, which is unusual at the Fridge, where you can always count on running into other boulderers. Sure enough, the quiet didn’t last… a bunch of folks from Portland and Eugene rolled in, as well as some friends of friends from Seattle, so after awhile it was a total scene. Every inch of ground was padded, which made for some pretty bold attempts and sends.

After awhile, though, we opted for a more quiet location, and headed for the Classic Crack area, which was busy but not swarmed. Made some new (to me) friends there, running into three of GR’s old friends. Randy finished our lead on Classic Crack and since there wasn’t a lineup behind us, we all took turns getting to know the route in detail; the most by GR who has a date with her on lead next trip. I took a number of laps, trying to get the crux worked out reliably enough that I can confidently get on, on lead. It’s the hardest “5.8″ I’ve ever climbed, but we visit it just about every time I go to Leavenworth, and I’m definitely improving my crack technique (especially for wider hands and fists) each time. I look forward to someday getting on that route on lead.

We were all pretty well thrashed, but before bed perked up enough to decide to head out to the Swiftwater area in the morning for a few more boulders before heading for home.

During a gas stop, Randy and Bounder (aka John) met Sarah and Mary, who weren’t sure if their climbing party was going to show or not. We traded introductions and beta on getting to Swiftwater just in case, and then we headed out. We got to Swiftwater and started warming up, and Mary and Sarah and their friends came out to join us. We had a nice, chill day at Swiftwater. We warmed up on the Prey / Schisthead boulder, with Prey, a fun V0 seeing a lot of traffic. Here’s me, warming up on the middle of the boulder.

With tons of spotters and a well padded floor, our attention turned to Schisthead (a V2 up the center of the boulder) and its V3 variation (starting from the left). GR sent the V3 onsight, and Randy very nearly topped out, but then his mantled heel slipped on moss and he took a big fall from the top. He was okay, minus a few fingertips, and we kept at it. I flashed the V2, which was really exciting for me.

I usually don’t get really sketched by topouts, and even highball topouts… unlike in roped climbing, where I’m a total head case, in bouldering I tend to just know what I have to do and execute. This time, I worked through the route smoothly and with confidence; I got in position for the big push to the top,

and then worked my feet up high. I pushed for the lip and couldn’t reach it; I worked my fingers and feet up delicately and reached the lip. I looked at my options for moving my feet up and didn’t like what I saw, so the thought “I have to downclimb” flashed through my head. I think my fear of heights actually kicked in to make my brain and body override the instinct to downclimb or come off, since I snapped myself out of it, matched hands on the lip to move my feet up, then carefully pulled the mantle. It was a heart pumper — definitely the highest and least secure topout I’ve pulled — but it was FUN. Shaking with adrenaline, I walked off and was pleased with finishing the problem.

Bounder worked the V3, which added a slightly technical traverse to the start. I’d like to to that link up, too, but after topping out I wasn’t sure I wanted to do that mantel again that day!

After we’d bouldered out those routes, we headed down to the Cave. There aren’t any rated problems in the book, but there are two lines out to the lip that were tons of fun. I actually did respectably on the right line — despite being super steep, it played to my footwork and body tension strengths. We worked on it for some time, then the boys’ attention switched to the line on the left. GR came close to linking it all up…

and Randy’s beta was incredibly productive. Bounder took a few turns, despite bleeding feet from breaking in new shoes…

And GR worked it until he was so tired he had no option but to take a good rest.

After that, we crossed the street with Mary and Sarah and Ian to visit Royal Flush, a stunning roof crack rated V2. With careful padding and spotting, GR and Randy worked it, with some solid attempts. I had a hard time getting off the ground — the guys were starting with jams loose enough they could move off of them to make progress on the start; I’d get in fist jams good enough to hold my body weight to get off the ground, and then I couldn’t get them loose to move on the route! It was a really inspiring line, and one I’d like to come back to, but the landing was scary even with pads and unbelievable spots. GR and Randy worked the unlikely looking Sleeve Ace (V3) which I tried a few times, but couldn’t figure out the starting footwork on. I think I was also just plain hosed. My forearms and triceps took turns burning and saying “ouch,” and my attempts on Royal Flush had about done in my hands. We were all completely exhausted, so decided to call it a day.

Yet again, it was another fantastic weekend in Leavenworth, and I made a bunch of new friends. Between my bicep tendon which I’m still rehabbing (but thankfully, am cleared to climb on) and the workout from this weekend, I’m EXHAUSTED. I’m looking forward to taking it a bit easy this week, and working endurance in the gym to balance out all the bouldering I’ve been doing lately!

How was your Memorial weekend?

Filed under: Bouldering, Climbing Photos, Leavenworth, Trip Reports

The RockClimberGirl guide to moderate bouldering in Leavenworth.

No, seriously. There is. I’m not pulling your leg.

I’d been told that bouldering in Leavenworth, WA is no fun until you’re at about V4. I’ve heard it’s punishing, hard, and was looked on with skepticism from my bouldering friends when I announced that I was going to start bouldering up there a few weeks ago. Alas — finding regular climbing partners has been a bit less predictable lately, so I’ve wanted to get used to the idea of climbing activities I can do solo with relative safety, and bouldering is my pick. Lizzy from Dream in Vertical said at one point that bouldering has been great for her lead head, which I definitely still need to work on. And, I’ve been climbing routes almost exclusively for the last few months, so my endurance is up, but my power is lacking. For all those reasons, I decided it’s time to expand my climbing to include bouldering outside. In four plus years of climbing, I’ve done precious little outside bouldering; it’s time to change that.

The short version, for those of you who just want the ticklist. Here are the problems, and their locations, that I’ve found fun so far and worthwhile to play on, whether I finished them or not:

The Fridge Boulder: Cool Down (V0-), Cellar Door (V3), Fridge Center (V4)
Barney’s Rubble: The Rail (V0), Tree Crack (V1), Fun House Stairway (V1+)
Mad Meadows: The Scoop (V2)
Lower Forestland: Breadline (V0+)
Upper Forestland: Sunny and Steep (V2)

And, now the long version.

Cool thing about bouldering #1: No alpine start necessary.
Last weekend, I kidnapped my buddy Peter for my first Leavenworth bouldering trip.
We headed out from Kitsap about 7 am; not the 5 am or so I’m used to for climbing trips. We took our time getting out to Leavenworth, stopping for groceries and stove fuel, and to stop in to Der Mountainhausen, otherwise known as Leavenworth Mountain Sports, just for fun. We arrived at our first destination, the Fridge Boulder, at about noon.

We left the Fridge Boulder at about 4 pm.

In the intervening four hours, Peter and I, repeatedly, threw ourselves at the Fridge Boulder, in an exercise some might call “insanity.” We tried, and tried, and tried problems; trying the same thing, over and over, and hoping for a different outcome. Peter was working “Fridge Center,” a classic Leavenworth V4. I was working Cellar Door, a three move V3 that most folks passing through cruised on their first or second go. I have no idea how many times I tried it. The beta: grab starting sidepull / slot (depending on how you want to go), with your feet low on good holds. Move right hand out to a painful crimpy rail, then work your feet way high on a good left, and crappy right foot. Spring up to a sloping ledge then top out. That whole springing up to the sloping ledge is my downfall. That brings me to:

Cool thing about bouldering #2: Some landings, and falls, can be safe.
I tried to spring for that sloping ledge I have no idea how many times. Every time, I came up somewhere between one and six inches short. Over the course of the day, I actually touched the ledge maybe twice, but couldn’t hang on. Every time, I’d either fall away from the boulder and land safely on a single bouldering pad (whether or not I was being spotted), or, I’d slide down the boulder a bit, but even that didn’t cause any damage. I actually had fun flinging myself at the slopey ledge all day, and it was hard to give up on the problem even though I wasn’t making progress. I’ve got to get a little more confident on my feet to be able to push up to the hold instead of unsuccessfully flailing toward it each time, so this is a project I’ll come back to for sure. I didn’t finish the crux of Fridge Center, but the starting moves are delicate and fun and fantastic. I look forward to working that one too, once I’m a bit stronger.

After that we moved on to Mad Meadows where Peter worked a host of harder problems including the unlikely-for-me sit start to Drugstore Cowboy (V3) which looks fun after the start, and we spotted but didn’t get on the Hueco Route (V1) which looked like fun. I became obsessed with The Scoop, a V2 on The Rail boulder. The problem works up a slopey/pinchy sidepull on the left side of a scoop feature on the rock, to a full extension envelope slot on the right side, with (for me, at least) delicate footwork required to make the reach. From there, it’s good holds up to the topout. I tried and tried the start and couldn’t reach the good envelope slot. Finally, on one attempt that didn’t begin on the start holds, I reached the envelope slot, so then I knew I had no excuse. After a few more tries, I gained the envelope slot after starting on the ground, and then really had no excuse. I had to top out. Oh crap.

Cool thing about bouldering #3: Topping out can be fun.
Without hesitation, I carefully, slowly and deliberately worked my hands and feet up toward the topout, and next I knew I was standing on top of the boulder. I was kind of surprised — it happened really fast, and I didn’t get nervous about the top out, even though I assumed I would. Instead, I just thought, “Well, now I just have to get up there,” and I did. It was super fun. If I’d never topped out on anything that day, it would have been a day well spent — I decided early in the day that I’d rather work V3s (which, really, is very ambitious for me) and not finish a single one, than climb V0s in a try or two all day since I’d learn more. It turns out, V2 is a good sweet spot for me at this point. They’re not gimmes, I learn something from them, but some V2s I can finish, so if I get frustrated with a given V3 or V4 I know to try to find a V2 to work for a possible success.

The next day, we were both pretty worked, so the day started out with a roadside pancake making sesh (turns out if you deep fry Krusteaz whole wheat and honey pancakes in canola oil, they taste better than donuts) and then a leisurely migration to the Barney’s Rubble area. This brings us to…

Cool thing about bouldering #4: The vibe.
Climbing is fun, but climbing is also stressful. There’s lining up enough partners that hopefully, by the time you actually leave, at least one won’t have bailed. There’s all the gear, all the sorting, the racking, the preparation, the packing. There’s the seriousness… the first aid kits, the water-enough-for-the-objective, the food, the planning, the routefinding, the approach, and the who’s taking first lead. I love it, and I tie in every chance I get, but I gotta say… boulderers are on to something.

Bouldering is pretty freaking chill compared to all that roped-up drama. Peter wasn’t really feeling it on Sunday, but heck, we’re just bouldering, so we loaded up coffee, shoes, chalk bags and the bouldering pads and headed for the Barney’s Rubble area. Peter also brought along a little magic elixir, which he claimed helped him feel better after yesterday’s self-abuse… a part-full bottle of red wine. I climbed The Rail (V0) which was fun, including a nice slabby downclimb, and Tree Crack (V1) which was confidence inspiring and great fun. Tree Crack is a nice thin crack for hands to start, up to sections with good holds for hands and some with thinner hands, requiring a bit of foot-trusting. I can’t vouch for the landing, since it is a bit slabby, since I didn’t come off; I just worked up it and really enjoyed it. It has an easy walkoff, which is also a bonus.

I worked Fun House Stairway (V1+) a bit, but it felt unbelievably hard — I could hardly get into a proper sit start on the start hold.

Really, though, that first weekend we were just pretty hosed. We visited with a few nice passer-by boulderers, and ran into a buddy from our gym who’d relocated, so Peter had some magic elixir, I climbed a few easy / fun boulder problems and snacked on oranges, and we had a nice, chill time. Overall, the other boulderers we met were friendly, warm and relaxed. Every once in awhile you see whatever-the-bouldering-equivalent-of-tossing-a-wobbler is, but mostly, the vibe is relaxed and fun, and I think everybody’s just a little bit happier for not having to hike two hours with 30 pounds of gear.

This last weekend, I went back to Leavenworth, and met new friends Fitz and Becca who shared their campfire with me Saturday night, then the guys rolled in late. Colin lead and I cleaned Classic Crack (5.8) as a warm up on Sunday (fun, hard for the grade, I look forward to leading it someday), then we headed for Barney’s Rubble to start the day. The guys worked Alcove Center (V4, with a V5 dyno variation) and I tried it a handful of times, but after missing the first move enough times to bruise my butt to sore, I decided to back off a bit.

I started VERY slow. I was feeling my Classic Crack warm up, and wasn’t sure I was fully recovered from bouldering the prior weekend, so was pretty nervous to pull too hard too fast. I worked Fun House Stairway a bit, and felt progress, but have yet to finish it. The problem is hard. When I abandoned the far left side of the sloping start hold which everybody else uses, and just crimped on the edge of the hold that made all the difference in the world. I can now make the first few moves (footwork, including using heel hooks, is key for keeping your weight in) so I look forward to getting back to it again.

Cool thing about bouldering #5: It’s fun, even if you don’t finish anything.
I really felt a sense of accomplishment just making improvement on problems, even if I didn’t finish them. On the other hand,

Cool thing about bouldering #6: It’s really fun to actually finish problems.
After everybody had thrashed themselves a bit at Barney’s Rubble, we headed for the Forestland area. The approach is lovely this time of year … bright green leaves, and lots of wildflowers, lining a beautiful trail. I still wasn’t super inspired, while the guys worked some fun hard-looking problems, but didn’t want to miss an opportunity to do a more achievable problem and fired up Breadline (V0+) which was excellent with a good topout. Again, I didn’t even hesitate when I got up high… I just knew I had to finish the problem, and finished it. We moved up to the Upper Forestland area, and while the guys worked some harder stuff, I went a wandering. I fell in love at first sight with Sunny and Steep (V2). Not just because it reminds me of Red Rock, NV… it looked FUN. The start was working up rounded sidepull juggy holds (for my hand size), to get your hands up high on two pretty good sloping ledges, then feet high to push up and left to get a decent sloper; another foot adjustment, then a kind of delicate top out on slopers (it’s not identified as a highball in the guidebook, but I definitely didn’t want to come off it from up high). Colin sailed up it but found the top out a bit slopey and insecure; I watched other climbers do different top outs that looked more secure. I pondered the problem for a long time which the guys worked Funny and Cheap (V4), occasionally trying, getting to the pretty good sloping ledges (the high point where I felt safe dropping from), but then didn’t have the courage to push higher.

I finally started to get cold, and packed up, telling the guys I thought I was done for the day, and was going to head out. I slowly packed up, muttering about “coming back to it,” and “too tired,” and “don’t want to hurt myself,” then decided, screw it, I can do it, and now’s the time.

With a fantastic herd of spotters and four pads, I started up the problem which by now was preprogrammed to my high point. When I got my hands on my high point holds, I don’t remember hesitating, I just remember slapping up and left for the next (not great, kinda more slopey than I was hoping for) hold, and at some point Colin called out just the right beta (“Get your right foot high,” which I did) to basically match hands on the more-slopey-than-I-would-have-liked hold, to get my feet up and reach up for the pretty good first hold of the top out. I was a bit intimidated by the top out before I started climbing, but once I was up there I just dialed myself in, moved very slowly and deliberately, making sure to keep my weight forward so I wouldn’t pull away from the rock if a particular hold wasn’t as good as I expected, and I topped out happily and with a great feeling of accomplishment. I also had a sincere appreciation for my herd of spotters… Once I was up there, I didn’t doubt my ability to top out, but when I threw for that not-so-great sloper, I was thankful to have six hands all there to try to keep my head off the ground if I came off.

Then, I was thankful for yet another roadside cook-out, this time in the parking lot of Der Safewayhausen. Don and Peter went razor clam digging on Saturday, so Don fried and we ate more diggers than I could count, sitting on our bouldering pads in the parking lot, to mostly disapproving or unamused looks and only a few smiles and thumbs up.

I’ve got to take a bit of a break… my fingers and shoulders are pretty worked from all of it… but I’m super excited about incorporating more bouldering into my routine. I know that sometimes I will get scared when topping out, I think I’ve just been lucky to find problems that I could work through the top outs on, but I LOVE the feeling of confidence I have when I’m working through those top outs… when I know that I just can’t fall, so I have to just do it and succeed. It’s not like me to think that confidently, but at least so far, it hasn’t been forced positive self-talk… it’s just been natural confidence, which feels really unusual and great. Lizzie’s right — I do think that bouldering just might be the best training I could do for lead climbing, since if I can muster that kind of confidence and keep calm on boulders, hopefully I can do the same thing on gear and bolts.

I look forward to tasting more of Washington’s boulders this year, now that I’m excited to get out and boulder. I’m also happy to know that now I have a good eye for problems that might be fun and safe for me to work on my own, with just my bouldering pad, for solo trips or days out when my partners have their own projects.

Most of all, I’m excited to know that I can find good, challenging projects in the V1 through V3 range. You might have to hunt around a bit if you’re a sub-V3 boulderer (like me) but they’re there, and they’re fun!

Filed under: Bouldering, Leavenworth, Trip Reports

Kari’s camera, to the rescue… and Leavenworth, August 2008

So, finally, a few snapshots… courtesy of Kari’s little Kodak. There may be more to come from KT’s camera, so will do an update if so. Since I have more “lifestyle” shots than climbing shots, this seems like a good time to introduce some of the newer players to my climbing circle.

This is me and Kari, my climbing life partner (edit, 8/19/08 – please read comments for a clarification). The picture isn’t from this weekend, but it’s time for us to share our special bond with the rest of the world. Kari is the climbing partner I can always count on… she’s in for anything… all I have to do is call or txt “Wanna sleep outside tonight?” and she responds, “Bellevue or Monroe?” to identify where we’re going to meet up to carpool from. Gear or sport, Kari can follow or clean anything I can lead, and she’s becoming a solid leader on her own (you’ve come a long way, baby). We learned, spending the last weekend out with other climbers instead of just the two of us, that we don’t actually use language in the way most people do… we start our conversations somewhere toward the middle, and changes of subject occur frequently based on exchanged non-verbal communication through the form of facial expressions. Don and KT deserve serious props for putting up with us all weekend and being such good sports about the constant Kari/Sara exchange. So, anyway, that’s Kari.

KT is one of those beautiful girls who makes funny faces in photographs, but we did get a few of her on belay so far. KT is hard core. She’s in serious shape, she’s got mad technique, and she’s got a great head for rock climbing. Plus, she just outs with the funniest KT-quips on occasion… it’s a serious challenge to get a word in with me and Kari, and KT made some really valiant efforts this weekend. KT’s boyfriend Bryan is another of our climbing friends… he has the best crag dog in the world, Bort. Bryan and Bort stayed with me for a few weeks when they were in between residences, and Bryan is officially the Best Roommate Ever. We missed Bryan this weekend, since he had to stay home to study for exams… but were thankful that he loaned KT out to us to round out the climbing party.

Don doesn’t care for the nickname “Mr. Reliable,” but it’s true… he’s actually climbing *more* than I am at this point… he had one morning of work between Leavenworth and Squamish this week, and so far he’s on the “good list” having not cancelled on me yet. Don even stuck to the plan a few Sundays ago when we had North Bend plans and the weather looked really iffy… instead of a last-minute cancellation after all his other partners bailed, he arrived on time, and although we had to change destinations to get good weather, we had a great climbing day. Don started climbing late last year, and is a natural… I’m counting on him to quickly become a ropegun, which is compatible with his own goal of getting into alpine climbing, so that works out well.

So, that was the case of characters for our Leavenworth trip this past weekend. You’ve already heard about the Blue Tarp night, so I won’t repeat that story… here’s the short version of the rest of the trip, since I’ve already yammered on long enough and have to get back to work.

We spent Saturday at 4th of July wall, or thereabouts. The hike in was just epic (kidding — totally kidding) and we started on Silhouette, a 5.7 mixed route. The climbing was easy until the top, where I started to work right toward a couple of bolts and wound up on a shelf for hands with no feet, on climbing that felt decidedly 5.9, not 5.7. I downclimbed a few moves and then fell (a bit) on the last bolt, and then Kari yelled up that I’d gone off route. The 5.7 finishes straight up on easy climbing, and doesn’t go to the bolt line to the right. I finished it up, and then everybody took turns leading on my gear to warm up.

I can’t remember whether we started working the route to the right on toprope or if KT and Don just hopped on it on lead; either way, there’s a bolted line to the right that’s not in the book that Kari thinks is a 5.9 (and, it felt Leavenworth 5.9). KT and Don both lead the route (KT’s lead was impressive… talk about sticking with a crux…). We had a toprope fest on the route, and I think Don did multiple leads on it, and just had fun. That photo is Don demonstrating the beta for the crux move at the top… hands to the right, smear your right foot to your left, throw the left foot up high, then rock over to reach an intermediate edge (for us shorter people) or the lip (for taller folks). It was an awesome move… well protected… tons of fun.

After lapping those two routes until we were ready to move on, we headed to Roto wall for some gear placement and anchor building practice.

We inadvertently slept in on Sunday… the sun comes through the trees so late at Eightmile (where we had a proper campsite for night #2) that we got up really late, had coffee, and didn’t actually head for the crag until about 10:45am, one of my latest departures ever. The objective was Pearly Gates… excellent choice, Don and KT. I’d never been there before (can’t believe it… given that it’s one of the most fun places I’ve been at Leavenworth). Just goes to show, climbers are generally lazy hikers… the approach was steep and strenuous, but not at all bad, and totally worth it. We started out on the 5.7 bolted line on the far right… I don’t have a guidebook, so you’ll have to do without route names. I lead, then Don followed me; KT lead and belayed Kari up to the ledge above. From there, we did the 5.8 on the right of the upper wall, and the 5.9 on the left of the upper wall. Both have bolted belay anchors (the 5.9 is the 2nd pitch of a two-pitch bolted 5.9 route). Don lead the 5.8 and wondered why he is a rock climber for a few minutes there, on the tenuous slab moves and no hands clips… while KT lead the 5.9 to the left, which we all agreed was one of the highlights of the weekend. It was such a highlight that we climbed the heck out of it… all of us took multiple runs on it, I think, and all had a great time figuring out the crux move.

We headed back down to solid ground for KT and Don to consider a 10b bolted line that was one of our objectives for the day… the route was occupied, and we waited around for a solid amount of time before deciding that the daylight was getting short, and we should probably save it for the next time.

So, we didn’t do a TON of different routes… we did a lot of laps, though, so got in a fair amount of climbing given the relatively short days we were out. The trip was super fun, and I’ll definitely go back to Pearly Gates. I’d heard the approach was terrible, and it wasn’t terrible at all… it was steep and crumbly in spots, but I would, and will, do it again.

The KT and Don Factor did come into play… KT and Don are a bit cursed when it comes to climbing trips together… and that trend continued. We had two stuck ropes in two days of climbing; a number of twisted ankles; and a handful of other little gremlins in the process… but I’d go out with both of them again, despite the fact that that may be tempting the KT and Don Factor Gods. We actually decided that the four of us made a good little potential alpine team… we worked really well together all weekend, and despite little hiccups that came up, everybody kept their cool and stayed productive and creative and constructive and safe. It was a really nice vibe, especially when Don and KT are relatively newer climbing partners for me.

So, that’s short on beta, but hopefully having a handful of photos will make up for it. I’m hoping to get out a bit to North Bend on Saturday, then am talking trip planning with a number of friends, so stay tuned for more info about the next few weeks when it becomes available…

Filed under: Climbing Photos, Leavenworth

Kari’s camera, to the rescue… and Leavenworth, August 2008

So, finally, a few snapshots… courtesy of Kari’s little Kodak. There may be more to come from KT’s camera, so will do an update if so. Since I have more “lifestyle” shots than climbing shots, this seems like a good time to introduce some of the newer players to my climbing circle.

This is me and Kari, my climbing life partner (edit, 8/19/08 – please read comments for a clarification). The picture isn’t from this weekend, but it’s time for us to share our special bond with the rest of the world. Kari is the climbing partner I can always count on… she’s in for anything… all I have to do is call or txt “Wanna sleep outside tonight?” and she responds, “Bellevue or Monroe?” to identify where we’re going to meet up to carpool from. Gear or sport, Kari can follow or clean anything I can lead, and she’s becoming a solid leader on her own (you’ve come a long way, baby). We learned, spending the last weekend out with other climbers instead of just the two of us, that we don’t actually use language in the way most people do… we start our conversations somewhere toward the middle, and changes of subject occur frequently based on exchanged non-verbal communication through the form of facial expressions. Don and KT deserve serious props for putting up with us all weekend and being such good sports about the constant Kari/Sara exchange. So, anyway, that’s Kari.

KT is one of those beautiful girls who makes funny faces in photographs, but we did get a few of her on belay so far. KT is hard core. She’s in serious shape, she’s got mad technique, and she’s got a great head for rock climbing. Plus, she just outs with the funniest KT-quips on occasion… it’s a serious challenge to get a word in with me and Kari, and KT made some really valiant efforts this weekend. KT’s boyfriend Bryan is another of our climbing friends… he has the best crag dog in the world, Bort. Bryan and Bort stayed with me for a few weeks when they were in between residences, and Bryan is officially the Best Roommate Ever. We missed Bryan this weekend, since he had to stay home to study for exams… but were thankful that he loaned KT out to us to round out the climbing party.

Don doesn’t care for the nickname “Mr. Reliable,” but it’s true… he’s actually climbing *more* than I am at this point… he had one morning of work between Leavenworth and Squamish this week, and so far he’s on the “good list” having not cancelled on me yet. Don even stuck to the plan a few Sundays ago when we had North Bend plans and the weather looked really iffy… instead of a last-minute cancellation after all his other partners bailed, he arrived on time, and although we had to change destinations to get good weather, we had a great climbing day. Don started climbing late last year, and is a natural… I’m counting on him to quickly become a ropegun, which is compatible with his own goal of getting into alpine climbing, so that works out well.

So, that was the case of characters for our Leavenworth trip this past weekend. You’ve already heard about the Blue Tarp night, so I won’t repeat that story… here’s the short version of the rest of the trip, since I’ve already yammered on long enough and have to get back to work.

We spent Saturday at 4th of July wall, or thereabouts. The hike in was just epic (kidding — totally kidding) and we started on Silhouette, a 5.7 mixed route. The climbing was easy until the top, where I started to work right toward a couple of bolts and wound up on a shelf for hands with no feet, on climbing that felt decidedly 5.9, not 5.7. I downclimbed a few moves and then fell (a bit) on the last bolt, and then Kari yelled up that I’d gone off route. The 5.7 finishes straight up on easy climbing, and doesn’t go to the bolt line to the right. I finished it up, and then everybody took turns leading on my gear to warm up.

I can’t remember whether we started working the route to the right on toprope or if KT and Don just hopped on it on lead; either way, there’s a bolted line to the right that’s not in the book that Kari thinks is a 5.9 (and, it felt Leavenworth 5.9). KT and Don both lead the route (KT’s lead was impressive… talk about sticking with a crux…). We had a toprope fest on the route, and I think Don did multiple leads on it, and just had fun. That photo is Don demonstrating the beta for the crux move at the top… hands to the right, smear your right foot to your left, throw the left foot up high, then rock over to reach an intermediate edge (for us shorter people) or the lip (for taller folks). It was an awesome move… well protected… tons of fun.

After lapping those two routes until we were ready to move on, we headed to Roto wall for some gear placement and anchor building practice.

We inadvertently slept in on Sunday… the sun comes through the trees so late at Eightmile (where we had a proper campsite for night #2) that we got up really late, had coffee, and didn’t actually head for the crag until about 10:45am, one of my latest departures ever. The objective was Pearly Gates… excellent choice, Don and KT. I’d never been there before (can’t believe it… given that it’s one of the most fun places I’ve been at Leavenworth). Just goes to show, climbers are generally lazy hikers… the approach was steep and strenuous, but not at all bad, and totally worth it. We started out on the 5.7 bolted line on the far right… I don’t have a guidebook, so you’ll have to do without route names. I lead, then Don followed me; KT lead and belayed Kari up to the ledge above. From there, we did the 5.8 on the right of the upper wall, and the 5.9 on the left of the upper wall. Both have bolted belay anchors (the 5.9 is the 2nd pitch of a two-pitch bolted 5.9 route). Don lead the 5.8 and wondered why he is a rock climber for a few minutes there, on the tenuous slab moves and no hands clips… while KT lead the 5.9 to the left, which we all agreed was one of the highlights of the weekend. It was such a highlight that we climbed the heck out of it… all of us took multiple runs on it, I think, and all had a great time figuring out the crux move.

We headed back down to solid ground for KT and Don to consider a 10b bolted line that was one of our objectives for the day… the route was occupied, and we waited around for a solid amount of time before deciding that the daylight was getting short, and we should probably save it for the next time.

So, we didn’t do a TON of different routes… we did a lot of laps, though, so got in a fair amount of climbing given the relatively short days we were out. The trip was super fun, and I’ll definitely go back to Pearly Gates. I’d heard the approach was terrible, and it wasn’t terrible at all… it was steep and crumbly in spots, but I would, and will, do it again.

The KT and Don Factor did come into play… KT and Don are a bit cursed when it comes to climbing trips together… and that trend continued. We had two stuck ropes in two days of climbing; a number of twisted ankles; and a handful of other little gremlins in the process… but I’d go out with both of them again, despite the fact that that may be tempting the KT and Don Factor Gods. We actually decided that the four of us made a good little potential alpine team… we worked really well together all weekend, and despite little hiccups that came up, everybody kept their cool and stayed productive and creative and constructive and safe. It was a really nice vibe, especially when Don and KT are relatively newer climbing partners for me.

So, that’s short on beta, but hopefully having a handful of photos will make up for it. I’m hoping to get out a bit to North Bend on Saturday, then am talking trip planning with a number of friends, so stay tuned for more info about the next few weeks when it becomes available…

Filed under: Climbing Photos, Leavenworth

Northwest Profile # 60: Blue Tarp Camper. aka, prelude to a Leavenworth Trip Report.

So, I’ve listened with half-interest to the Pemco radio ads revolving around Northwest Profiles… they’re funny, but never hit home until this weekend. KT, Kari, Don and I all headed for Leavenworth… we packed light, since we thought we may end up with five in my Volkswagen Jetta. We ran late the whole trip up… by the time we got to Leavenworth all of the campgrounds were full, so we had to “make do.” Long story short, we wound up in a beautiful spot by the river (familiar to most of my climbing partners) spread out on a tarp rather than pitching a full camp, so that we could make an early escape the next morning. Sometime during the middle of the night, I woke up to drizzle. We spread Victoria’s abandoned blue tarp (still in my roof box from the Tuolumne trip) over us and snuggled in… not noticing that the blue tarp was moldy and disintegrating until the rain actually started to drip through the tarp. KT and Don were on the ends, and apparently Kari and I spent the night pulling the disintegrating blue tarp over the climbing partner on either side of us, exposing the other fully to the elements. KT, on occasion, decided that Don was dry enough and pulled the tarp back to her side. I guess, nobody really slept except for me… I apparently have become a more hardy sleeper than I used to be. None of us was willing to get up to pitch KT’s two-person tent (thrown in as an afterthought) or my bivy… getting soaked just seemed a more appropriate way to go than actually getting up. Luckily, temps were plenty warm (muggy, actually) so survival wasn’t an issue… sleep deprivation was more the concern because of the occasional deluge that flowed down from a tarp shift, or, through a hole in the blue tarp during an especially strong period of rain.

We got up in the morning to break “camp” and head for climbing… and noticed… we were all covered (COVERED) in teeny, tiny bits of blue tarp. We looked like the victors in a smurf massacre. I am still (three days later) picking blue tarp out of my hair, ears and belly button.

Pemco, you hit the nail on the head with Northwest Profile #60. We joined the club of Blue Tarp Campers, this weekend at Leavenworth.

The upside… four climbers, no campsite, soaked bags, pillows and bodies, covered in bits of smurf massacre, operating on little to no sleep… and not a single complaint or gripe from anyone. I knew we’d put together a good climbing party, looking around at my blue-speckled friends on Saturday morning.

More details on the climbing later, when I hopefully have some photos to share from Kari and KT’s cameras… we had a great weekend. Climbed Saturday near Fourth of July Rock, then to Roto Wall for some gear placement practice. Sunday we started late for Pearly Gates, which was fantastic (I can’t believe I hadn’t climbed there before). My vocal cords are a bit tired from all of the girl talk (poor Don, good sport) and my knees a bit tired from the Pearly Gates approach… but overall, we made a great climbing team and had a lot of fun. Stay tuned for more…

Filed under: Friends, Leavenworth, Partners

More quick hits, 05.22.2008

Weekend is a total question mark… I’ll either leave for Squamish at about 6:30 pm on Friday and stay through Monday night, or, I’ll head to North Bend-ish and climb Saturday then probably head for home. We’ll see. In the meantime, here are a few more quick hits…

• Don’t camp in the Icicle River Valley in Leavenworth. It’s terrible, and you may get your purse stolen. Don’t read the article, just skip to the comments since that’s all you really need to know. Question — why would you hit the tent to see if someone was awake if you planned to break into their car? Do these thieves not understand the concept of “stealth?”
• Watch Steph Davis climb the Full Crack House. Then, buck the trend, and don’t comment on her at rockclimbing.com.

I guess that’s it for now. Happy Thursday!

Filed under: Amazing Women, Leavenworth

Should Icicle Buttress have its own blog category?

This post was going to be, I had an uneventful weekend, the end… but, you know I could never write a blog post that short, right? I had tentative climbing plans for Friday afternoon, to be followed by a weekend of housework. When the Friday plans fell through, I realized I was armed with a free afternoon, beautiful weather, and a relatively unscheduled weekend (since housework can always wait). After my work thing was over, I thought to myself… Leavenworth sounds good.

I just happened to have everything I’d need for a weekend in my car… climbing clothes, climbing gear, sleeping stuff… and some folks from the local gym planned to be up there, so I figured I’d either crash their party, con one of my climbing girls to come up and join me, or make some new friends. Turns out, all three were on the menu for the weekend.

Friday was a lovely drive up, in time to snag a great little campsite at eightmile (which was still half empty by bedtime) and then enjoy a burger and beer at Gustav’s which fit the description of a beergarden and german sausage place that I’d heard about but not previously found. The burgers, and the redhead waitress, were fantastic.

The rest of my new Kitsap friends rolled in after I’d gotten back from dinner: Blonde Katie, Candace, Other Alex and Richard. It was Other Alex’s first time outside, and Richard and Candace’s first time outside in Washington… only Blonde Katie and I had been to Leavenworth before. After a nice evening and leisurely morning — during which, the guys earned point after point for their gender by such tasks as fire building and cooking meals — we hit a very hot, dusty and empty Clamshell Cave for a day of toproping. Did I mention we had four (yes, four) dogs with us? Katie’s, Candace’s, and Richard’s two. I am not typically a believer in dogs at the crag, but this little pack were champs.

We each climbed several routes, and then my dearest Sarah P and her boy Jeff made it up in the very hot afternoon. They treated me to a trip up a bolted 10a that I’d wanted to try since the last time I was up there last year, that I had hoped to lead this trip, but my head wasn’t in quite the right place. It was fun on toprope (but not clean, so I’ll come back to it for sure).

Saturday evening found us back at Gustav’s, celebrating Richard’s quarter century on the planet while Sarah and Jeff babysat Agnes, Blonde Katie’s adorable (but special needs) dog at camp. Let’s just say, Sarah and Jeff were relieved when we finally returned to camp… as always, Sarah and Jeff got the “above and beyond” award for the weekend.

The plan was to sleep out under the stars and then buzz down to Exit 38 in North Bend to climb somewhere a little bit less hot-as-hell. When we all started to stir, Jeff and Sarah suggested a pre-Wafflehaus “jaunt” and Other Alex and I were in. Jeff had in mind that little multipitch on Icicle Buttress and I chuckled to myself… let’s just say that I have a little bit of history with Icicle Buttress and specifically the R&D route he was referring to. On the other hand, Jeff and Sarah are fast, efficient, and highly competent, and I’ve learned a ton since my last long day on that buttress, so after discussing some logistics we set off. When we got to the base, there was another party on the route, moving VEEEEEEERY slowly. Now — I don’t quite know how to describe just how slowly they were moving. I do not believe I have ever *seen* a party move so slowly — and I’m slow-moving when left to my own devices. Jeff lead up the cracks to the climber’s left of the bolted slab, and then brought Other Alex up. Sarah set off on her lead, and I followed. We met up at a lovely belay ledge, with plenty of room to lounge, where I worked on my photo series of Sarah P in Repose (on Other Alex’s camera, so no pics yet). Since the party ahead of us was still on the next belay and it wasn’t nearly as roomy and comfortable, we chilled on the ledge for awhile (a long, long while) before continuing up. Jeff and Other Alex finally set off, and Sarah and I visited with a variety of friendly folks who joined us on the ledge so that I could time my arrival at the next belay at the point when Other Alex cleaned his anchor and headed up since the next belay was not nearly as roomy or comfortable. I took the lead and had a fun time placing oodles and oodles of gear, and then built an anchor (which left something to be desired – I’m going to pull out the John Long Anchors book and figure out a way to get some more practice since I definitely need it). I’m finally feeling like my gear placements are good, but I need to seriously work on anchor building. I belayed Sarah up, at which point she pointed out a perfect alien placement I’d missed to back up the anchor and since there was now a veritable traffic jam on the route due to the slow party ahead of us Sarah took the lead since she’s faster than I am on gear.

I just kept paying out and paying out rope, until finally there was no more. Between the wind and the river, we knew we wouldn’t be able to hear each other, so I kept waiting for the “two tugs” to mean “off belay” and then a following “two tugs” to tell me my belay was on. The tugs never came. The rope was taut for a good few minutes, before I figured that I was either on belay or Sarah had run out of rope. I knew Sarah would have placed abundant gear, so very cautiously disassembled my anchor and climbed very carefully up a few feet to see if the rope pulled tight. It didn’t, right away, so I stayed put, not wanting to outclimb my rope in case Sarah neither had me on belay nor knew telepathically that I was prepared for a short simulclimb if she had indeed run out of rope. Eventually the rope went taut and I started on very slowly to make sure the rope stayed taut, which it did. The last pitch was great fun… the rest of the route is a whole lot of work for that fun and fantastic finish but I look forward to doing it again and leading the last pitch when there aren’t fifty people in line behind me on the route. I met Sarah and the guys at the top… sure enough, the guys’ 70 meter was long enough to finish the route; our 60 meter ran out about 10 feet from the top, so the guys came to the rescue to reiterate my “two ropes are mandatory” rule for Icicle Buttress. We had a brief hoot and holler and enjoyed the view before packing up to descend so that we could get Other Alex to work, very, very late as it was.

In retrospect, despite my skepticism based on my previous experience with the approach slabs to R&D, that outing could have been a pre-Wafflehaus jaunt even with our party of four — with the exception of my anchor building and subsequent rope mis-management, we were efficient and moved quickly. As it was, because of the delay ahead of us, we were on route by about 8:30 am I think, and made it to the Wafflehaus at 1:30 pm. Even by multipitch standards, that was SLOW. But, the climbing was really fun, Other Alex learned a ton from Sarah and Jeff (who are excellent teachers, speaking from personal experience) and I got to experience the entire route which had been a bit of a nemesis for me since my last go at it. I got more good feedback from Sarah on my gear placements, and identified that I still need serious work on anchor building and rope management. Our descent was not bad at all following the cairns off to the left of the crag, and by the time we got back to the base where we’d left some extra gear, there was a veritable traffic jam on the Buttress. I didn’t stop to count climbers but if you’ve ever seen those horrible pictures of Everest with climbers all piled up waiting in line … that’s what the Buttress looked like. There were climbers everywhere. At the belays, in mid-pitch on their way to crowded belay ledges … it was a zoo. We high-tailed it out of there and while waiting for Der Waffles saw an aid car speed down highway 2… my first thought was that I hope all of those many, many climbers are okay out there.

Anyway, it was another great climbing weekend. Some new friends, some old friends, and as always, an adventure.

Filed under: Leavenworth

Outer Space, a long winded narrative, but not a full trip report

I got back late last night from my Washington climbing weekend… Shawn, Kelly and I spent Friday at Exit 32 and then went to Leavenworth Friday night for an early morning start on Outer Space (III, 5.9). I’m not going to do a full trip report… this trip was about the climbing, not the blogging or photography (I didn’t even take a camera, for once)…

But, the longer I’m off Outer Space, the better it gets so a short blog post is the goal (maybe – we’ll see when I’m done typing… and now that I’m done typing, who am I kidding, I can’t do a short blog post to save my life). I guess you’re right, guys — I just can’t not blog about climbing.

During the route, I had moments of total bliss… mostly, actually, sitting on ledges while my climbing partners either climbed or belayed (we were a party of three, so there was some time to sit around and rest and take in the views and flick ticks off ourselves and the gear). I used to be terrified of heights… but climbing has either become an exception or it’s just different from other kinds of “being up high” — I know and trust the system and my partners, so I can actually enjoy the height, look around, and take in the views, without feeling panic. At just two pitches up, I was already looking down on birds flying around, which was very cool. The route was unusually empty — we had two parties ahead of us and one or two parties behind us, but after the first anchor we didn’t actually see or hear another climbing party except for the occasional climbing command shouted out way, way above us and obscured by the wind.

This was my first YDS grade III (graded as a half-day climb)… my multipitch experience before this was limited to a handful of two or three pitch outings. The whole thing was very “heady” for me… it’s always a lot of responsibility to be a climbing partner, but I really felt the seriousness of the undertaking (despite the relatively easy or moderate climbing) on that particular route. I took, I think, two falls while seconding and felt really awful that my partners had to catch falls.

After climbing in the middle of the party most of the way up with Shawn (who visits this route annually) and Kelly switching leads, the guys gave me the option of leading the first “money” headwall crack pitch. I very nearly passed on the opportunity because I was tired and scared. But, I took a few minutes and thought through it… looking at the route, I thought it was within my climbing ability, I just didn’t know for sure whether keeping a party of three safe was within my trad leading ability. On the other hand, I knew I’d get good feedback from Shawn on my gear placements, and I figured — if they trust my ability enough to offer the lead, then I should trust my ability to do the lead. While the climbing was relatively easy, the gear required some thinking — Shawn had prepared me for the fact that the crack is really consistent (#2 camalot, most of the way up the 150 or so feet of climbing) so I’d need to backclean/leapfrog gear to protect my lead while conserving pieces, since we only had three #2 camalots. I got in several nuts and smaller cams down low on the pitch and then hit the “gear conservation” consistent section, where I got into a rhythm of climbing, running it out a bit, finding a good stance for placing a #2, then climbing, looking for another #2 or #1 placement, putting the gear in, and then backcleaning the lower piece by either reaching down to get it, or downclimbing from my high point to retrieve the gear for reuse.

I got so into the rhythm of backcleaning that I was a little overzealous about it — I actually arrived at the belay ledge with a #2 left over — that piece should have been left somewhere on the route to protect my lead, not on my harness. I built the best anchor I could knowing that Shawn and Kelly were freezing on the ledge down below during my not-super-fast lead, and then brought Shawn up. Did I forget to mention that it started to rain during my lead? Not bad, but enough that we needed to move and not dilly dally since the descent would be even less fun (read, potentially very dangerous) on slippery rock. Did I also forget to mention that after placing a handful of nuts, the rest of my nuts on their wiregate carabiner inexplicably flew out of my hand (I still don’t know what happened — I had just placed a nut, and I don’t know whether I was trying to clip the carabiner back to my harness or whether I just plain dropped the gear) and I watched them tumble down, down, down — calling “rock” and with the rest of my party doing the same to notify any lower parties and/or the herd of goats at the base of the route. Yup, I think I forgot to mention that part. I have seriously got to work on being less of a fumble-fingers. And, note to self — I simply have got to teach myself and practice how to belay and rap on a Munter, and how to rap on a carabiner brake, before my next climbing trip.

Anyway, I didn’t relax at all until Shawn got up to the ledge and told me my gear placements were good and my anchor was acceptable, at which point the whole thing became suddenly just very, very, very fun and rewarding and satisfying despite the embarrassing newbie oops of potentially losing half my rack of nuts and the very full knowledge that were were probably all crawling with ticks. Sitting on library ledge, wiggling around to keep warm, while Shawn brought Kelly up the pitch I’d lead was my favorite part of the whole day. The next pitch was the 2nd best part of the day — Kelly lead it, so I got to just enjoy the climbing without having to worry about leading, and the pitch was just absolute fun from bottom to top. Shawn ran up the final easy set of knobs to the top, and belayed both Kelly and I up to the topout where we enjoyed a minute or two of the view and then quickly coiled ropes (note to self #2 – my rope backpacking technique needs some work) and packed gear to start the descent before the weather got even worse. The descent was sketchy at points, but Shawn knew both the fast way (which we didn’t take) and the relatively safe way (which we did take) and the descent was marked with a number of cairns so trail-finding wasn’t terrible. We stayed harnessed up in case we had to rappel, and we didn’t have to rappel. The guys quickly located my lots nuts (which were REALLY banged up from their little encounter with gravity and solid surfaces) on our way out, so that was a bonus. The easy hike out was a relief after so much scrambling and uphill, and daydreams of dinner kept me moving at a relatively good clip.

It was about an 11 hour day from car to car; our climbing went a bit slower as a party of three than a party of two would, but the parties of two behind us didn’t catch up with us so we weren’t moving too slowly. The approach is long (about two hours) but do-able… I’m sore this morning more from the hiking and scrambling than the climbing, but I wouldn’t hesitate to do the approach again. The stop off for burgers in Leavenworth was well-earned. All in all, it was another perfect day of climbing.

Filed under: Climbing, Leavenworth, Rock Climbing

I smell like a wet dirty dog and soap

Yes, folks – we’re back from yet another heavenly climbing trip. Leavenworth has officially become my favorite place to climb in Washington. That is Shawn on something hard at Alphabet Wall, in Icicle Canyon. Just out of frame are Chris and I watching in awe.

It’s late, and we have lots of ticks to wash out of our clothing and sleeping bags (none of them have sunk in, so far, though! How lucky!) so I’ll have to keep this one brief. We spent Friday just the two of us at Bruce’s Boulder, playing on topropes and discovering that I can be rather stubborn on toprope. Who knew? Saturday we were lucky enough to have the perfect company of Shawn and Ken at Trundle Dome, home of the world’s most frustrating (and perfect) 5.9s. I do not believe I have ever taken so many falls in one day… but it was a fantastic learning experience, and really fun to get to get on stuff that we’re close to being able to lead but don’t have the guts to just yet (thank you, Shawn!). Plus, the place is just lovely and scenic, and we had it all to ourselves all day, which was a huge bonus. That afternoon we went to Alphabet Wall where Shawn lead, and Chris (and Ken, right?) toproped the hardest 5.8 in the world (then again, I was so tired by the time I got on it my eyes watered so I didn’t have the stubborn for that particular one that particular day). Once Chris and I were too tired to do anything other than take pictures, Shawn got on the one pictured above.

Sunday took us to Roto Wall for a gear practice fest… I lead my first trad climb (a super fun little 5.5), as did many in our party, and others did their first outdoor leads and/or first crack climbing there. It was a perfect starter/practice wall, and was a nice way to spend the morning. Unfortunately, most of the day I was in a sportsbra (I forgot my tank top at the campsite) so pictures from that day will all have to be burned. Or at least deleted. Pretty please. I swear, I don’t have that gut in real life, it just magically appears in pictures. Tell me I’m right about that, Kari, please.

That afternoon we went out to Clamshell Cave for toproping an ok 5.6 and a SUPER fun 5.8 on the right hand side of the wall. Since I don’t have a guidebook I can’t provide more detailed beta – but this was an area we’ll definitely go back to.

This morning took Kari, Chris and I on our second attempt to try to find climbs on Domestic Dome… we had an unsuccessful attempt a few weeks ago, and a nearly equally unsuccessful attempt this time. But, as chance has it, Domestic Dome is just a few steps from Roto Wall, so we abandoned our Domestic routefinding attempts and went back to familiar ground at Roto wall. I lead, Chris lead, and Kari mock-lead a fantastic 5.6 on gear, and we each got gear placement feedback (except Chris, who checked his on his rappel to clean) which was really encouraging. I felt solid at the grade, and confident with my choices in gear placements, so now I’m super excited to try some longer easy trad routes. The climbing at Leavenworth is hard, but incredibly fun, so we’ll definitely be back soon.

Unfortunately, the camping at Leavenworth is, like most climbing areas, hygenically challenged. We came back filthy and thankfully not tick-infested, and after attending to a few necessities around the house ran for the nearest shower. I can’t wash my own hair right when we get back from trips because my cuticles are shredded and they catch on my hair, which makes the shredded cuticles even worse… so Chris kindly helped me. Once my hair was wet, and he started scrubbing in the shampoo, he let loose with,

“You smell like a dirty dog!”

Now, that may offend some women, but I found it hysterical. He went on,

“You know, when you get ‘em wet, and they smell like a wet dirty dog, and then you put the shampoo on, and then they smell like a wet dirty dog and soap?”

Yup, I know. And that’s me. I smell like a wet dirty dog and soap. I’m also bruised quite well and rather battered, a little bit sun-kissed and pretty much sore all over. These things are all sure signs of a perfect long weekend.

P.S. No, I didn’t get any good climbing pictures of Chris. Why? Because I’m typically belaying him when he climbs, and for some reason he doesn’t want me taking pictures and belaying at the same time. If any of our travel companions managed to snap some pictures of Chris climbing, can you please let us know? Thank you…

Filed under: Hygiene, Leavenworth

I smell like a wet dirty dog and soap

Yes, folks – we’re back from yet another heavenly climbing trip. Leavenworth has officially become my favorite place to climb in Washington. That is Shawn on something hard at Alphabet Wall, in Icicle Canyon. Just out of frame are Chris and I watching in awe.

It’s late, and we have lots of ticks to wash out of our clothing and sleeping bags (none of them have sunk in, so far, though! How lucky!) so I’ll have to keep this one brief. We spent Friday just the two of us at Bruce’s Boulder, playing on topropes and discovering that I can be rather stubborn on toprope. Who knew? Saturday we were lucky enough to have the perfect company of Shawn and Ken at Trundle Dome, home of the world’s most frustrating (and perfect) 5.9s. I do not believe I have ever taken so many falls in one day… but it was a fantastic learning experience, and really fun to get to get on stuff that we’re close to being able to lead but don’t have the guts to just yet (thank you, Shawn!). Plus, the place is just lovely and scenic, and we had it all to ourselves all day, which was a huge bonus. That afternoon we went to Alphabet Wall where Shawn lead, and Chris (and Ken, right?) toproped the hardest 5.8 in the world (then again, I was so tired by the time I got on it my eyes watered so I didn’t have the stubborn for that particular one that particular day). Once Chris and I were too tired to do anything other than take pictures, Shawn got on the one pictured above.

Sunday took us to Roto Wall for a gear practice fest… I lead my first trad climb (a super fun little 5.5), as did many in our party, and others did their first outdoor leads and/or first crack climbing there. It was a perfect starter/practice wall, and was a nice way to spend the morning. Unfortunately, most of the day I was in a sportsbra (I forgot my tank top at the campsite) so pictures from that day will all have to be burned. Or at least deleted. Pretty please. I swear, I don’t have that gut in real life, it just magically appears in pictures. Tell me I’m right about that, Kari, please.

That afternoon we went out to Clamshell Cave for toproping an ok 5.6 and a SUPER fun 5.8 on the right hand side of the wall. Since I don’t have a guidebook I can’t provide more detailed beta – but this was an area we’ll definitely go back to.

This morning took Kari, Chris and I on our second attempt to try to find climbs on Domestic Dome… we had an unsuccessful attempt a few weeks ago, and a nearly equally unsuccessful attempt this time. But, as chance has it, Domestic Dome is just a few steps from Roto Wall, so we abandoned our Domestic routefinding attempts and went back to familiar ground at Roto wall. I lead, Chris lead, and Kari mock-lead a fantastic 5.6 on gear, and we each got gear placement feedback (except Chris, who checked his on his rappel to clean) which was really encouraging. I felt solid at the grade, and confident with my choices in gear placements, so now I’m super excited to try some longer easy trad routes. The climbing at Leavenworth is hard, but incredibly fun, so we’ll definitely be back soon.

Unfortunately, the camping at Leavenworth is, like most climbing areas, hygenically challenged. We came back filthy and thankfully not tick-infested, and after attending to a few necessities around the house ran for the nearest shower. I can’t wash my own hair right when we get back from trips because my cuticles are shredded and they catch on my hair, which makes the shredded cuticles even worse… so Chris kindly helped me. Once my hair was wet, and he started scrubbing in the shampoo, he let loose with,

“You smell like a dirty dog!”

Now, that may offend some women, but I found it hysterical. He went on,

“You know, when you get ‘em wet, and they smell like a wet dirty dog, and then you put the shampoo on, and then they smell like a wet dirty dog and soap?”

Yup, I know. And that’s me. I smell like a wet dirty dog and soap. I’m also bruised quite well and rather battered, a little bit sun-kissed and pretty much sore all over. These things are all sure signs of a perfect long weekend.

P.S. No, I didn’t get any good climbing pictures of Chris. Why? Because I’m typically belaying him when he climbs, and for some reason he doesn’t want me taking pictures and belaying at the same time. If any of our travel companions managed to snap some pictures of Chris climbing, can you please let us know? Thank you…

Filed under: Climbing Photos, Hygiene, Leavenworth, Trip Reports