Climbing with Strangers, on Climbing Magazine’s Reader Blog

I was in the city the other day — Seattle, the land of abundant takeout options. I grabbed a plate of Phad Se-ew and my fortune cookie made me smile from ear to ear:

“You will always be surrounded by true friends.”

Seriously, I could not make this stuff up. That fortune was fitting, given the topic of today’s post.

My most recent Climbing Magazine Reader Blog post is online for your reading and, viewing pleasure, thanks to the photography by my buddy Ben Fullerton.

If you’d like to connect with the #climb Twitter friends mentioned in the post…
here’s the list:

Ben F: @generalbenson
Tyson: @tysontitensor
Amy: @ameliacarolyn
Bracken: @bracken
Ryan: @boulderdiaries
Tom: @tmarkiewicz and @climbing
Ben W: @benwills
Erika: @redheadwriting
Jenn: @jennfields
Jeremy: @ten1seven
Jonathan of Climbfind.com: @climbfind
Jamie Clarke: @jc_climbs
Duffy: @bittabuffalo
Candace: @cjedmonston

There are so many other wonderful folks that have transitioned into my real life, including a host of really forward-thinking industry folk who’ve been incredible cheerleaders and a much-appreciated source of support. Brad Werntz of Pemba Serves, Larry Pluimer and Elizabeth Castro stand out in that list, but there are oodles more.

To the “big names” in the group who weren’t mentioned, I decided to err against the appearance of “name dropping.” But, since this is my blog, and I’m the boss, I will add — meeting Stephen Regenold (@thegearjunkie on Twitter and The Gear Junkie in the rest of the world) was a special treat. Stephen’s a “real” journalist, and his work is one of my inspirations for applying the level of professionalism I do to this blog. I had no idea how deep his climbing roots were until we met recently on a trip in North Carolina. It was a distinct pleasure to get to chat biz, writing, adventure, gear, and “other” with a dude who seems to be living the dream. Same thing for Stephanie Pearson, not on Twitter, but who I got the chance to meet because of Twitter (and, specifically, @jc_climbs and @eliz_castro). It was truly a pleasure, Stephen and Stephanie.

When I sat down to write that post for Climbing, I planned to tell each story, of each person I’ve now met offline… and realized, it would take pages and pages to do so. To those of you who made it into the story, and the many, many of you who didn’t, thank you for taking the time to get to know me, and I sincerely appreciate the chance to get to know you!

The full post is online here. Enjoy, and please share your comments below!

Filed under: Stuff to Read, The climbing life, Twitter

Climbing-induced Stockholm Syndrome

My most recent blog entry for the Climbing Magazine Reader Blog goes live today… it’s called “A New Entry for the DSM of Climbing Mental Disorders.”

Finally finding words for something that’s been nagging at me for almost a year feels good. The moment of clarity, as with most good epiphanies, came to me halfway up a multipitch traditional route.

Enjoy… take a read, and then come back here and share your thoughts on your own climbing psychology and partnership dynamics. I’m curious to hear how your experiences are similar or different from my own. Two friends read it pre-release, and it sparked some really delightful self-assessment and conversation… I look forward to the dialogue!

Filed under: Partners, Stuff to Read, The climbing life

In shameless self-promotion news…

My first post for Climbing.com’s Reader Bloggers project has gone live. I’m super excited… it’s pretty wild to see my name up in lights on climbing.com. And, even more cool to see some of my friends’ names up in lights in the photo credits. You seriously have no idea how hard it is to get a decent photograph of me. That Kari and Shawn manage, on occasion, to get a shot where I neither look like a sausage, nor, am making some sort of pained, scared face, is a freaking miracle. Shawn confided recently that he’d shot a ton of pictures of me on my “big proj” boulder problem at Red Rocks, but they were all awful.

Speaking of photographs, I have a few projects coming up (some, even with a teeny tiny paycheck attached) that will need more photos than I have in my stock. If you happen to be one of my buddies who’s taken pictures on our trips that I haven’t gotten copies of, and you don’t mind sharing, let me know! They don’t have to be of me (please, God, let them not be of me)… but sometimes I need more shots than I have of places I’ve been…

Filed under: Stuff to Read

In shameless self-promotion news…

My first post for Climbing.com’s Reader Bloggers project has gone live. I’m super excited… it’s pretty wild to see my name up in lights on climbing.com. And, even more cool to see some of my friends’ names up in lights in the photo credits. You seriously have no idea how hard it is to get a decent photograph of me. That Kari and Shawn manage, on occasion, to get a shot where I neither look like a sausage, nor, am making some sort of pained, scared face, is a freaking miracle. Shawn confided recently that he’d shot a ton of pictures of me on my “big proj” boulder problem at Red Rocks, but they were all awful.

Speaking of photographs, I have a few projects coming up (some, even with a teeny tiny paycheck attached) that will need more photos than I have in my stock. If you happen to be one of my buddies who’s taken pictures on our trips that I haven’t gotten copies of, and you don’t mind sharing, let me know! They don’t have to be of me (please, God, let them not be of me)… but sometimes I need more shots than I have of places I’ve been…

Filed under: Stuff to Read

"Some of the most self-indulgent climber-prose dreck that I have ever had the misfortune of coming across."

I hesitated to use that quote since I can’t provide an attribution, since it was submitted anonymously, but the comment on my “Us and Them” article is just too well written to not give some credit to. While I know the comment wasn’t meant as a compliment, the poster was generous enough to direct me to a couple of authors that I’m familiar with only in passing, so now I have some new items for my reading list. And, even more fodder for a post I’ll someday post when I feel like *really* inviting a backlash… but today’s not that day.

Instead, how about some quick hits.

Blake at Spraycaster.com and Sharp End LLC is promoting his new iPhone application, for sale on iTunes. Part of the proceeds go to support the Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition. I don’t have an iPhone, so I can’t play with the app hands on, but it’s a tool for folks to “score” their climbing days, based on “how much effort” they spend during the day, according to Blake. It allows you to spray your updates directly to their website and to your Twitter account, and they’re working on new features and translation to additional languages. Here’s a collection of reviews of the software, so check it out.

In “Stuff to Read” updates, some guy is still climbing hard in Spain. Courtesy ClimbingNarc. Peter Beal just posted Five Reasons Climbing Competitions Will Never Catch On With the General Public over at mountainsandwater.com.

Every day should be a “be-you-to-the-fullest day.” Nice turn of phrase, Chetroy.

On the “Shameless Commercialism” front, get the to your nearest Costco, and pick up a Samsonite Wheeled Duffel for substantially less than the $79 shown at this site. I paid less than $40, and this sucker is awesome. Allow me to show you just *how* awesome.

All this:

From bags packed

(that’s, from left to right, shoes, rope tarp, rope, sleeping bag, harness, chalk bag, helmet, pack, rack, thermarest, bivy, and thermarest pillow)

Fits in here:

From bags packed

Like so:

From bags packed

In the lower compartment, goes the empty pack, the rack, the sleeping bag, the shoes, the harness and chalk bag.

From bags packed

In the upper compartment, goes the rope, tarp, helmet, thermarest, bivy and pillow.

From bags packed

Left over is room in the top and bottom for a teeny amount of clothes and personal items.

Pity the poor TSA person who dares to open the bag for inspection. I’m going to try to refine the packing technique (maybe using dry bags, or something, to make packing and repacking easier)… and depending on how much I’m forgetting I may have to check two bags, but I think this monster may actually allow me to check one bag and carry one on with everything else. I don’t have a scale, so I can’t weigh it, but I’ll let you know an update after I actually do fly with the sucker.

I’ve got to cut it short today, lots of duties call. Stay tuned for my first Climbing Magazine reader blog post, set to go live sometime soon… and perhaps I’ll actually go live with the aforementioned post that’s sure to raise hackles. Today, though, I’ll try (one never knows) to remain uncontroversial and just say…

It’s a gym night tonight. My shoulder is doing great. I’m going to keep up with the bench press, but am going to reduce my weight a bit, to see if that helps with my shoulder stability (which, really, may be an issue with my glenoid bicep attachment and not my rotator cuff), and am going to take it easy climbing since my right index finger is a bit clicky, still, after working a hard bouldering problem a week ago. The Red Rock trip planning is… eh, never mind. It will turn out great, and will be a fun time had by all, I’m sure.

How are things in your world?

Filed under: Gear, Shameless commercialism, Stuff to Read, The climbing life

a climbergirl week in review

It’s been more work than climbing this week, so here’s what I missed…

The Patagonia winter sale is still on. I still haven’t really shopped it, since my gear priority was a haul bag (check! ordered from Fish Products this week, and I can’t wait to get it, love it, and then tell you all how much I love it).

Backcountry.com is having their “Biggest Sale Ever,” up to 70% off on over 12,000 items, including more than just winter gear. CAMP biners, Black Diamond dogbones and biners, helmets, harnesses, and some worthy packs are among the markdowns.

Moving on from the shameless commercialism… in the world of climbing blogging…

I was thrilled to see @jennfields on Allclimbing.com this week with a post about the Ourey Ice Fest. And, here’s more from Jenn at Climbing.com. Rock (er, ice) on, sister!

Via several sources, Trango Big Bro #5 has a recall notice. Check ‘em out.

ClimbingPanda needs some entertainment, to keep her from spending all her money on gear (sounds familiar). Go keep a girl company, eh? She did break down and buy the DMM offsets… which I’m super jealous of.

Carlo Traversi’s recent posts on his climbing life and the challenges facing pro climbers have gotten a lot of attention (and a number of really thoughtful posts by folks in the world of climbing).

I don’t know how I’ve missed it before, but just found Peter Beal’s Mountains and Water blog this week (or rather, he found me). If you like my blog, you’ll love his blog.

And, last but not least, here’s more Bishop, Bishop, Bishop from Luke and Lizzy!

That’s about it for now. I’m looking forward to getting into the gym tonight, and have had fun with being nimble and flexible about my upcoming Red Rock trip planning this week. I also SERIOUSLY appreciate all the beta I’m getting from Red Rock locals and others regarding our (ahem) apparently very ambitious tick list.

What’s new with you?

Filed under: Shameless commercialism, Stuff to Read

Is Ice Climbing Stupid?

There are a whole lot of things that have surprised me during my nearly four years as a climber, and a whole long list of things that I swore I’d never do and have now done. When I first started climbing in the gym, I couldn’t imagine going outside; at one point I swore I’d never highball boulder, multipitch climb, climb on gear, do long approaches, or go twelve days without a shower… all of which, I’ve now done. There are a few climbing disciplines that haven’t made it from “won’t do” to “done,” and ice climbing is one of them.

My ice climbing friends are turning the screws, so to speak, for me to come to Ourey this year, and to sample the fine Colorado ice. We’ll see. It’s tempting. I like the idea of getting outside even during the dead of winter. Ice might be good for my rock “lead head,” since if I can get myself to trust the ice, rock is going to feel bomber after that. On the other hand, I’m not exactly stoked about having to acquire additional gear… and really, I’m not terribly good in the cold (although I realized the other day that now that my nutrition is better I don’t seem to get as cold as I used to). That’s why I’m glad to have stumbled across Jenn Fields’ blog post today, appropriately entitled “Ice Climbing Is Stupid.”

Her post is hysterical… I laughed out loud while reading it. I’d quote the best parts but you might as well just go read her post. Enjoy…

Filed under: Stuff to Read, The climbing life

Monday, December 8th: Views from the Desk

I’m having a tough time getting rolling this morning after a nice weekend, so I’m going to allow myself one more diversion to share some deals, some reads, and some random thoughts from my vantage point here at my desk.

Deals

• LAST DAY – TODAY! Here’s Our Gift to You – 26% off. Coupon Code: HOHOHO
• Extra Savings at REI with $20 off a purchase of $100 or more! Code: HOLIDAY8 Dec 5-11
• Save 10% on any Moosejaw Sale Item with Code SUPERSALE! Coupon Code: SUPERSALE

Reads
These are recent blog posts I loved, written by climbers. They’re not all climbing-related specifically, but they do all have something to do with the climbing life.

• Added! Mt. Erie trip report from AlpineRack.
• Melon Collie – or how to look at things from a different point of view is by my friend Erika… she’s a kick ass redhead, a climber, and a writer. If you’re not following her on twitter, you should be.
• Two posts from Rachel, aka @WasatchGirl. The first is a video (including her!) of SLC locals just for fun. Even in low res, it made my hands sweat. The second is her latest gratitude list, which I always enjoy. The “soreness” observation resonates with me. I’m conditioned enough now that I (again, knock on wood) rarely hurt myself… but I do exist in a state where I’m pretty chronically worked. I’ve found the sweet spot between overtraining/underrecovering, and just the right amount of both to continue getting stronger. On days when I’m not just a little bit sore, I don’t quite feel like myself.
• Steph Davis is getting the word out about an Indian Creek missing dog…
• Kate’s post on the book meme that’s going around…
• James, blogging about How to Fall Out of Love with Katie Brown. No, I don’t endorse calling Katie Brown dumb (not very nice!) but I did chuckle at some of the random bits of the post.
• Luke and Lizzy and friends at Bishop… great pictures! I’m passing on a post-Christmas bouldering trip with my climbing crew, and this post makes me think perhaps I made the wrong decision…

Random Thoughts
Bouldering = awesome. I’m rediscovering bouldering this winter through my many gym field trips, and am really enjoying myself. I took a bad fall from the top of the bouldering wall about two years ago and got bone bruises in my ankle… talk about a long recovery. But now, I’m back in it, and am enjoying the mental and physical challenge of the short, hard, routes. Knock on wood, I’m hoping to not hurt myself… and am enjoying the mental aspects that translate directly to leading. Making hard moves without protection, with only yourself to rely on… it feels like it’s helping my lead head.

Any deals, reads, or random thoughts you’d like to share? Please comment!

Filed under: Deals, Stuff to Read, The climbing life

Monday, December 8th: Views from the Desk

I’m having a tough time getting rolling this morning after a nice weekend, so I’m going to allow myself one more diversion to share some deals, some reads, and some random thoughts from my vantage point here at my desk.

Deals

• LAST DAY – TODAY! Here’s Our Gift to You – 26% off. Coupon Code: HOHOHO
• Extra Savings at REI with $20 off a purchase of $100 or more! Code: HOLIDAY8 Dec 5-11
• Save 10% on any Moosejaw Sale Item with Code SUPERSALE! Coupon Code: SUPERSALE

Reads
These are recent blog posts I loved, written by climbers. They’re not all climbing-related specifically, but they do all have something to do with the climbing life.

• Added! Mt. Erie trip report from AlpineRack.
• Melon Collie – or how to look at things from a different point of view is by my friend Erika… she’s a kick ass redhead, a climber, and a writer. If you’re not following her on twitter, you should be.
• Two posts from Rachel, aka @WasatchGirl. The first is a video (including her!) of SLC locals just for fun. Even in low res, it made my hands sweat. The second is her latest gratitude list, which I always enjoy. The “soreness” observation resonates with me. I’m conditioned enough now that I (again, knock on wood) rarely hurt myself… but I do exist in a state where I’m pretty chronically worked. I’ve found the sweet spot between overtraining/underrecovering, and just the right amount of both to continue getting stronger. On days when I’m not just a little bit sore, I don’t quite feel like myself.
• Steph Davis is getting the word out about an Indian Creek missing dog…
• Kate’s post on the book meme that’s going around…
• James, blogging about How to Fall Out of Love with Katie Brown. No, I don’t endorse calling Katie Brown dumb (not very nice!) but I did chuckle at some of the random bits of the post.
• Luke and Lizzy and friends at Bishop… great pictures! I’m passing on a post-Christmas bouldering trip with my climbing crew, and this post makes me think perhaps I made the wrong decision…

Random Thoughts
Bouldering = awesome. I’m rediscovering bouldering this winter through my many gym field trips, and am really enjoying myself. I took a bad fall from the top of the bouldering wall about two years ago and got bone bruises in my ankle… talk about a long recovery. But now, I’m back in it, and am enjoying the mental and physical challenge of the short, hard, routes. Knock on wood, I’m hoping to not hurt myself… and am enjoying the mental aspects that translate directly to leading. Making hard moves without protection, with only yourself to rely on… it feels like it’s helping my lead head.

Any deals, reads, or random thoughts you’d like to share? Please comment!

Filed under: Deals, Gear, Stuff to Read, The climbing life

Light reading

I have had no time to keep up on my google reader, but just rewarded myself with a fifteen minute break to catch up on what’s going on with some of my climbing blogger friends. Here’s the short version:

• Kate & Mark turn around. Safety is the overriding objective, and it sounds like you guys make the right call. The route will (in all likelihood) be there the next time you give it a go. Good on ya for enjoying a day, even without the climb.
• Another poignant post from Majka Burhardt. I keep forgetting to start a renters’ insurance policy, and then remember… everything I own that’s important to me is in my car and/or roof box at any given moment (climbing gear + camping gear).
• My feminist card was revoked because I’m a sexist, and am not funny. (edit, 8/19/08 … sendaustin’s post is now returning a 404…)
• Deborah, on why talking is not complaining. I’ve noticed this in my own climbing circle… I always thought that the guys weren’t ever afraid, and couldn’t figure out how they could do this scary stuff without fear. Finally, after a few years, figured out that the guys I climb with just tend to not let on when they’re afraid.
• Here’s a beginner’s guide to climbing in Thailand, for Steve.
• And, last but not least, a Rumney trip report from Lizzy and Luke, the most adorable climbing/blogging couple I’ve encountered to date. And, they’re fellow helmet-wearers (rock on, Lizzy and Luke). They’ve recently moved over to WordPress for their blog hosting, so check out their new site here.

OK, back to work. Have a good week, all…

Filed under: Climbing Blogs of Note, Stuff to Read